Naima's Bellydance Blog

Coin Wrap to Bedlah Sew Along Task 8: Making a Belt Base

2012-01-25T17:30:00.001-06:00

Supplies:

Base Fabric
Interfacing, felt, denim, or equivalent
Paper, pencil, tape
Measuring tape
All-purpose sewing thread and needle (or sewing machine)
Scissors
Pins

Hey, Hey! I am getting back into the swing of things Well, a little at least. I've actually had this part of the sew along done for a few weeks now but have not been able to put it all together. So far the belt is going much smoother and faster than the bra, working with a fairly flat surface and all. All the base construction can be done with a sewing machine. That speeds things up a lot.

My original plan was to make a V-shaped belt because (for me anyway) the shape seems to fit around curves easier, with less darting and altering than other shapes. But as you will see, it changed into a heart-shaped belt part way through the process.

The pattern I made based off of the Sage Applique belt only with a much deeper V and higher, narrower sides. I just realized the pattern says 4.5" instead of the 5" that is clearly marked on the graph paper.

I took my hip measurement, divided it in half (for front and back), added 2 inches of overlap, and then drew a V to the depth I wanted. I recommend not going over 5-6" at the thickest part of the belt. I have noticed that plus sized dancers that have a wider hip measurement tend to also add inches to the height of the belt and throw the visual proportions off. Just because you may be fuller figured doesn't mean you are also taller, and vice versa.

I've been altering another of Sa'dia's costumes and really liked the front of this belt. I also liked that the front and back of the belt are completely separate and finished pieces. It is sewn together on one side with hooks on the other side. The front piece overlaps the back piece like a giant belt buckle. I have read that this type of belt is easier to take apart and re-size than a belt that is a continuous piece but never really understood how it was sewn together. After studying it's construction, I decided to toss my belt pattern and make a belt similar to this.

This side of the belt is sewn together and looks just like the other side with hooks. It isn't as bulky as I thought it would be. To alter it, you only need rip out the stitches, move, and restitch. This way there is no need to add or remove sequins, cut length off, add length, or redo the lining when resizing.

The inside of the sewn edge.

I used the same hip measurement from the first pattern and traced Sa'dia's heart-shaped belt onto an old pair of khaki denim jeans for the front and back of my new belt. I added 2 inches to each side of the back piece for overlap. I intend on overlapping both sides (one stitched in place, the other with hooks) just like Sa'dia's belt. I then measured the base fabric with 1inch of overlap. I also wrote myself a note for posterity.

I had already covered the front of the belt with fabric when I realized it was only one layer of denim thick. Oops. I cut a 2nd layer and carefully stitched it on as close to the edge as possible, (it looks kinda pretty.) Then I covered 2 layers properly for the back of the belt making shallow cuts along the edge to allow the fabric to curve smoothly. No darts where needed. The belt base is now ready for decoration.

Next Task 9: Decorating!

Supplies:

Remaining crocheted coin fringe from hip wraps used on bra
Beading needle
Sequins
Rocaille beads
Seed beads
Acrylic sew-on jewels
Upholstery thread/Beading thread
Scissors
Pins
Fabric glue

Want to see ALL of the pictures from my bra build? Join the Flickr Sew Along group and add your own at http://www.flickr.com/groups/bellydancesewalong/.

Good luck and have fun!
~N

Educate Thy Self

2012-01-20T16:21:00.001-06:00

So far, my favorite debate against SOPA and PIPA.
~N

Another Alteration

2012-01-19T18:26:00.000-06:00

For Sa'dia this time. This lovely bra is too small in the cup department. She had previously tacked some blue fabric across the top of each cup to cover the goods. It was finally time to put a proper extension in.

I ripped the fabric out Sa'dia had added, washed, and dried it. I had just cut up an old sweater to make a mat to go under the cats' food dish. The left over collar was just the right width to stuff the extensions.

Perfect fit! It was meant to be.

Behind the curtain. The original lining peeled back to reveal the bead work stitching.

I wanted to use as much of the fabric Sa'dia used because I didn't have anything to match. I added jewelry wire to the collar before covering it.

The newly stuffed extension stitched into place.

I had a hard time trying to match sequins and beads I from my stash. I decided to steal them from the side strap where they wouldn't be missed.

The blue and holographic sequins are from the bra strap. The trim around each leaf and extension is from my stash, as well as the "tea cups" near the center of the bra to mirror the star "tea cups" on the bra cups.

The lining stitched back down covering the raw edge of the extension. (I love the little butterfly beads on the fringe.)

From the top.

And, you're welcome.

My Other-Other Hobby

2012-01-19T10:39:00.002-06:00

Bookmarks stashed in an old Avon box.

I have been collecting bookmarks since 1986. My collecting has slowed down a lot over the past 10 years, with Bellydance being my primary hobby. Despite this my collection currently stands at 138 bookmarks. I keep them stashed away in a tiny box. I decided to start scanning them and uploading them to the internet making an online gallery of sorts. I have only managed to post 50 because I scan the front and back of each one and re-size them to fit together. Tedious but worth it.

http://bookmarkcollecting.blogspot.com/

~N

Wonder Twin Powers Activate! Form of Padded Bra!

2012-01-04T10:05:00.000-06:00

Top: new bra with cup extension. Bottom: old bra.

After all of the work I put into redoing this costume and extending the bra to a bigger size it did not fit! It was too big. At the time I started the bra I need the extension but once I was ready to fit it for shoulder straps I discovered the cups are way too big. I have never had to pad a bra. EVER. I had no bra padding nor old shoulder pads to be used as push-up padding. Instead I took the original, much smaller bra, and stitched the whole thing inside the new bra. And it actually worked! Once I figured this out I felt pretty genius.

Ideally, I need a bra size somewhere in-between these two. I bet if I had left off the bra extension off the new bra it would have fit fine. Well, hindsight and all.

Old bra stitched into new bra

The belt not quite as gaudy as I would like but I'm done working on it for a while.

Kindness and Compensation

2011-12-22T12:57:00.000-06:00

Standing in cockle burs in front of the "Warehouse"

In 2011, Everyone in my local dancecommunity really made a bigger effort to support each otherregardless of studio or troupe affiliation. Studios began hostingteachers from other studios within the community and there were moreclasses/events offered in which all types of dancers participated intogether. While not perfect, I believe this past year has been one ofthe most productive for our local dance community. There have beenmore opportunities to learn and share than there has been here in thepast decade. I am very proud to see the progress that has been madeand to see that our local dance culture is actually moving towardliving up to the idea of artistic integrity, openness, and diversity.I know there have been some bumps along the way, disagreements andhurt feelings, but I feel a much greater sense of pride in my fellowdancers with their efforts to bring the community together and keepit moving forward than I have before.

My participation in every dance eventthis year (except maybe 1,) was made possible by the dance communitywilling to trade services with me. I traded my sewing skills,substituted some classes, taught some privates, and traded a hoop forsome hair clips. I even got to take 6 weeks of East Coast Swingclasses by trading services. I have enjoyed this year of dance themost out of any in the past because each class I took and each eventI was able to attend had more meaning and value to me then any otherI have ever thrown money at.

In the past, the dance has always beenabout my own personal dance journey, my own growth as a dancer, mygrowth as a person, my own expression and experiences. I have often referred to my dance experiences as being in Switzerland, a neutral autonomous experience. Now I see thatI have been treating dance like a piece of meat thrown into themiddle of a pack of dogs. I growl and bite to grab my piece and thenhide away in the corner with my back turned so no one can steal itaway. There doesn’t have to be lines drawn in the sand with, “Idon’t dance that style so I’m not going,” or “I don’t havethe money for that.” The dance is so much more rewarding when youcan share it, trade it, participate in it, enjoy it. I have thought a lot about the kindness I have received and witnessed from my fellow dancers and for 2012 I intend on doing community service. Bellydance Community Service. I hope to take my skills and my time and give them to the Bellydance community as a whole, not just focus on one studio, class, or style of dance.

To begin I plan on tackling a personal pet peeve of mine. Costume cover-ups. I get irritated when I see a dancer without a cover up or only a veil wrapped toga style around themselves before/after a performance. I know some dancers don't have cover-ups for various reasons, mostly money. So instead of just being peeved I intend to offer my time and my serger to any dancer who wants a cover up. I will go to any studio and make simple kaftan/muu muu style cover ups for any dancer while they are in class. Dancers can bring 3yd of fabric and some sort of trade item for "payment." I will accept anything they would like to give in trade. (extra sewing supplies, a few bucks for a cone of thread, chocolate, coffee, loose beads or sequins, a book to read, old music, etc.)*

I have been dreaming about collecting loose beads and sequins from as many dancers as possible and make a "junk drawer" costume inspired by a costume Sa'dia gave me to alter for her. I think it would be fantastic to be able to create and wear a costume that represents other dancers in some way. A costume that represents the dancers in the dance journey with me. Just before Christmas, Jemina gave me 2 big trays full of beads, sequins, coins, and fabric, some of which belonged to her grandmother, the late Gita, (the first bellydancer I ever saw in person.) I took that as a sign to make my idea a reality.

I hope that by supporting my Bellydance community, the Bellydance community will continue to support me and that support will extend to other dancers out there. I sincerely hope everyone has had a wonderful year and I look forward to what the new year will bring.

~N

*I intend on making an event page for this starting in January.

The Big Show: Seven

2011-12-22T12:46:00.000-06:00

Dancing as "Kindness" on stage at the Vandivort. Photo: C. Bryant

I had the pleasure of dancing in The Big Show: Seven, Phenomenon Studios Annual Student Showcase, a themed show that featured modern and fusion Bellydance performance for each of the the 7 Virtues and 7 Vices preformed on the Vandivort Theatre stage. I was assigned Kindness as my theme.

It was such a treat to get to have a Bellydance based show on a real stage. At dress rehearsal we all chose the lighting sceme for our numbers. CHOOSE LIGHTING! Such a simple thing but so rare for our BD community to get to experience. Gary, the sound/lighting tech was very nice and supportive of our group. While I don't think he has had much if any exposure to Bellydance before he never once batted an eye or asked a condescending question. One of the most fantastic things about this themed show was how amazing and different everyone's song choice and performance was. Everyone appeared to have put a lot of effort and thought into their performances.

I really love backstage. I think I like being backstage more than on the stage. It is seeing where all of the secrets of the show are kept. The way the props are lined up and the costumes hung in rows. I like the reflective tape on the floor to show performers where to walk when the lights have dropped to almost pitch black. The Vandivort is a small modest theatre with tiny dressing rooms and old style floor lights along the stage front. Twenty dancers managed to share the tiny space with only breaking 1 light bulb during curtain call.

Pre-show warmup

Backstage

From behind the red curtain

Stage props for the current running production.

Dressing Room

Hall of previous shows

Event photographer (and dancer) C.Bryant waiting for the show to begin

Surprisingly comfy chairs

It was at this performance of "The Chair Dance" (aka Lust) that I realized how incredibly challenging it is. It doesn't have just one but two props, (chairs and hats).

Ananya and me chatting in the dressing room before the show.

Polish and Shine Workshop

2011-12-22T10:19:00.000-06:00

Learn how to polish & shine your dusty performance pieces so that your audience will remember you as the gem you truly are! Topics include cohesiveness, dynamics, texture, precision, and audience connection. Cost: $20.

First 4 students to register in full will receive a 45 min private session with Naima the same day! (Choose from 1pm, 2pm, 3pm, or 4pm) Click on Workshops at www.naiaalabbasi.com

That description sounds fancy! But yes, we will cover these topics.

~N

Coin Wrap to Bedlah Sew Along Task 7: Lining, Hooks, and Finishing

2011-12-20T18:42:00.000-06:00

Betty, (my dress form,) just doesn't have the right kind of rack to show off the bra. It looks much nicer on me than her.

Supplies:

Lining Fabric
All-purpose sewing thread and needle
Upholstery thread
Scissors
Pins
Hook and bar fastener
Sew-on snap
20g jewelry wire*
Jewelry pliers and/or wire cutter*

(UPDATE 12/28/11 - I forgot to mention that the lining material I used is from old club curtains from GX. The fabric is fire retardant for those times when I just burst into flames.=P )

20g jewelry wire and some floral wire cutters.

I left jewelry wire off the last Sew Along post (which is now updated,) as a supply to use before lining the bra. This step is *optional but if you are using soft-ish bra materials like I am it really makes a difference on how the cups curve to your chest.

I very carefully coil the end of the wire with the cutters to stop the ends from poking through the fabric once sewn on. Needle nose pliers would probably work better but I am too lazy to rummage through the tool box for them.

Wire whip stitched along the upper edge of each cup using upholstery thread.

Super un-sexy stitching in bra cups from the inside.

It is easier to handle the straps and line them before sewing them to the bra. You need a strip of lining fabric with 1/4-1/2 extra allowance to be folded under and whip stitched in place.

Strap stitched to the cup.

Strap stitched to the side strap of bra.

I usually pin the bra on with safety pins and mark where I want the straps to attach in the front on the cups. I take it off, sew them onto the cups, and pin them to the back/side straps. I try it all on again and check the placement on the side straps, adjust if necessary, remove pins and sew into place.

Hey, nice couch.

I don't have a pattern for lining fabric. Each bra I make is different so I cut a piece of fabric big enough to push down into the cups and have additional room to fold the edges under. This is pretty much the same process as covering the outside of the bra only in reverse. I whip stitch the lining on and trim excess fabric as I go.

I always make the side straps long enough to overlap allowing for weight gain/loss. I usually use 2 hook and bar fasteners (plus a snap) but could only find one. I can add another later. The snap is there to keep the overlap from flapping around while dancing.

I've been debating on adding more Tea Cups under the fringe for even more glitz but I can't decide. I can add them later.

The finished product rather unceremoniously laid on the carpet.

Hooray, all done!

I could have tried it on to take pictures but it's winter. I am (at the time of this writing,) wearing a thermal under shirt, t-shirt, sweatshirt, and fingerless gloves because I am so cold. The Husband Person on the other hand is wearing a bathrobe...and that is it.

Making a matching belt is up next. Seeing as how the move plus holidays have taken priority on my time I don't plan on starting the belt until January. I am a little disappointed it is taking so long to finish the bedlah. Before the house fire and move I would have had it all finished by Christmas.

Speaking of, I hope everyone in internet land has a safe happy holiday!

Want to see ALL of the pictures from my bra build? Check out the Flickr Sew Along group and add your own at http://www.flickr.com/groups/bellydancesewalong/.

Good luck and have fun!

DanceTastic: The Dying Swan

2011-12-08T11:47:00.000-06:00

Reposting a video from The Occidental Dancer of John Lennon da Silva dancing a hip hop/street interpretation of The Dying Swan. It's absolutely breath taking.

Bellydance Opera Fusion

2011-11-29T23:42:00.001-06:00

I couldn't wait to share this after seeing it on FB. Ashley Lopez changing the game by singing opera with Bellydance.

Coin Wrap to Bedlah Sew Along Task 6: Decorating and adding shoulder straps

2011-11-29T21:38:00.001-06:00

Shoulder straps filled with sequin Sandwiches and edged with Ropes.

Supplies for shoulder straps:

Grosgrain Ribbon (or layers of felt, interfacing, or equivalent)
Base Fabric
All-purpose sewing thread and sewing needle
Beading thread and beading needle
Sequins
Rocaille beads
Scissors
Pins*
Tape Measure*
Thimble*
Sewing machine, (everything can be hand sewn) *

Beading Techniques used to decorate the shoulder straps

Sandwiches

Ropes

*optional

Picking up where we left off on Task 5, now that the bra is decorated we can tackle the shoulder straps. This post is pretty short and boring seeing as how making straps is fairly quick and painless. It is the decorating that takes most of the time. I also dropped my cell phone in the toilet and snapped the cord of my mouse in half this week. I didn't want to push my luck with the camera.

I measured the distance from bra cup over my should to the bra back and added 2 inches extra allowance to attach them to the bra. I want to make the straps 2 layers of grosgrain ribbon thick but instead of cutting 4 pieces (2 for each strap) I cut 2 lengths of grosgrain ribbon twice as long as my strap measurement and folded them in half. I machine stitched down the center of each strap to hold them together. I do this because I can never keep all of the layers pinned together when I machine sew the fabric over them.

Next I cut base frabric strips twice as wide as the ribbon straps to ensure I have enough to wrap around the edges. I machine sew the base fabric along each side of the ribbon to encase it folding the edges down as I sew. (Don't mind the extra stitching on the red base fabric I salvaged. I didn't bother to rip it out.)

Two red shiny straps ready for decoration.

Next I filled each strap with Sandwiches and edged them with Ropes (top photo.) I started to attach them to the bra but decided to line them first. I'll save that for next week's post. Soon we will be ready to make a matching belt!

Next Task 7: Lining, Hooks, and Finishing (updated 12/20/11)

Supplies:

Lining Fabric
All-purpose sewing thread and needle
Upholstery thread
Scissors
Pins
Hook and bar fastener
Sew-on snap
20g jewelry wire*
Jewelry pliers and/or wire cutter*

Want to see ALL of the pictures from my bra build? Check out the Flickr Sew Along group and add your own at http://www.flickr.com/groups/bellydancesewalong/.

__________________________________________________________________________

I'd like to say thank you to everyone for their patience while I took a break from the Sew Along to move and otherwise have Life happen. I hope some of you are still working on your own projects. I'd love to see your pictures added to the Flickr group link above.

BONUS PIC!

Thanksgiving Cornish Turduckin in Bacon (a hen in a duck in a chicken in a turkey wrapped in bacon filled with stuffing.) Yeah we ate that ;)

Sewing Tutorial: Blanket Stitching a Lining Over Fringe

2011-11-28T18:51:00.001-06:00

Ooo, Dangly

Loose whip stitches tack the lining in place.

I was finishing up the belt for the Sage Applique costume and snapped a few pics of sewing the lining in. I normally use a loose whip stitch to hold a belt lining in place. For areas where the lining covers an edge with fringe I use a wide Blanket Stitch.

Begin by laying the belt face down on the table with the fringe facing away from you. Smooth the fringe out making sure none of it is caught under the lining. This keeps the fringe out of the way while sewing. I fold the edge of the lining fabric under as I go. You may prefer to pin it under before stitching.

Holding the belt with the lining facing you insert the needle through the belt fabric and into the lining fabric keeping the needle over the tail of the thread. (I make a tiny stitch under the lining where the knot will be hidden before making the first blanket stitch, not shown.)

Pull the needle through and the thread will loop around itself creating a Blanket Stitch.

Pull the thread tight and the new Blanket Stitch holds the thread smoothly away from the fringe.

Continue stitching as above along the line of fringe making a new Blanket Stitch after every 3-5 strands of fringe.

Nice neat stitches hold the lining in place and allow the fringe free movement.

Boober helped focus the camera for this tutorial.

Have fun and Good luck!

Daughter Answers Father's 8/8/88 letter on 11/11/11

2011-11-11T07:46:00.000-06:00

Dear Dad,

I just found your letter in a box of old stuff the other day. I was pleasantly surprised to find it just in time to write you back. Thank you so much for the present. I have no memory of what it was but I'm sure I liked it a lot. Don't feel bad that you were late in sending it. Even though I was only 10 I still understood that it is hard to ship packages when you are stationed out at sea.

The letter from your computer is very nice. I am using a laptop in my living room to write this letter while watching my husband play video games on our 42" LCD TV. Our technology is quite out of date but it is sufficient for our needs. When I am finished I will post this letter on my blog. Most people don't hand-write letters anymore. Most people don't even use email anymore. Everyone uses the "FaceySpaceys," texting, or online chatting to communicate. I wonder how much longer the Post Office can survive with the internet's world wide free communication. I read an article in the paper recently (an honest to goodness print paper) about the USPS having to close down many of the small town PO's because of the decrease in revenue over the past 10 or so years. I never realized that the USPS has not received tax payer dollars since the 1980's. It's a shame the USPS has been taking such a hit lately but I do really like the ability to embed links in my letters. Cool, huh?

Did you notice the time stamp on this post? It is the eleventh day of the eleventh month of the eleventh year. It has only been 23 years since your wrote the 8/8/88 letter. Now that we are at the beginning of the century the same digit date happens more often. The next time the date is all the same digit will be nexy year on 12/12/12.

I am no longer in school anymore. I work full time now. I will have been with the company for 11 years next January. It was not exactly how I imagined myself in the future but my benefits are pretty good and I get a ton of vacation days.

Oh! Do you know how old I was this birthday? I turned 33. I'm getting old, ain't I? I still have never returned to California. I like to tell people that I was born there but I've never been. I have always intended on going to San Diego to see the place I came into the world. Maybe stick my feet in the Pacific Ocean while I'm at it. I don't know when or if that will ever happen but I am staying optimistic.

As for Kenny and Jane, I have not seen them in years. I probably wouldn't know Kenny from Adam if I bumped into him. I'm guessing their daughter must be in her early twenties now.

I hope to come visit you sometime next summer. Maybe sometime around my birthday. You don't have to worry if I like your gifts anymore. I think now that I am in my 30s money is always better, LOL! Tell everyone I said, "Hi!"

Love,
Em

P.S.
I've scanned a copy of the letter you sent with the gift just in case you forgot what it said.

Eat Your Hearts Out

2011-11-08T12:22:00.000-06:00

A few highlights from my photo shoot with Chris of CHRISwerx photography. He is my new favorite person...He thought I was in my early twenties.

BWHAHAHAHAHA!

I'm gonna pretend he really meant it and wasn't just being nice. I had a seriously sore throat 24 hours later from walking around half dressed down in machine valley in October but it was totally worth it. These turned out so nice that I want him to follow me around all the time as my very own paparazzi. No telling how sexy I might be in sweat pants and fuzzy slippers.

~N

P.S. My dance skirt and belt were held together with a ponytail holder and some strategically placed ruffles.

Beaded Brooch

2011-11-07T10:44:00.000-06:00

Maulene made some alterations on the Necklace Tutorial to create matching brooches for her costume bra. She used metal rings from her scrap book supplies as a base for the brooch. Great idea!

Naimaland State of the Union

2011-11-06T12:59:00.003-06:00

B.S-C. on the stage at Pythian Castle

Right, so moving to a new house was quite unexpected and even though it only took a week to move my whole life seems to be about a month behind. We left the old house behind at 2am on the night of the Husband Person and my 5 year wedding anniversary. The next weekend I taught and performed at Hips Noir VI. I spent a 1 1/2 weeks driving back and forth to the office until my home office internet was set up. Two weeks later was the workshop and show featuring Sahar Sami. Many of us had the opportunity to dance on the stage at Pythian Castle, which was super cool. The following day was a trip to Joplin for Sahar's Haram production. Oh, and I modeled in a recent photo shoot. Busy busy month.

Stephanie N. at Pythian Castle (she made her costume)

Behind the scenes at Pythian

Dancers' lounge at Pythian Castle

Father - Daughter Zeibekiko

A ridiculously huge mirror in Pythian Castle

Dancers pose for photos after the Haram show

Me with Stephanie N. as "the Bride" from the Haram show

KC, Miss B, Patsy B, and me after the Haram show

Boober crashed out after his last round of shots for the year.

A rare sight, Rupert and Boober make nice.

Beebin taking respite in my new office.

A never-ending procession of stuff to unpack.

Looking for the Sew Along bra in the Craft/Dance/Guest Room, aka "The Blue Room"

My current goal is to get back into the Sew Along and have the bra finished by Thanksgiving. I have located everything I need to pick up where I left off. I did get sidetracked with another costume while looking for the Sew Along items because it too is very close to being completed. I also have to refit some costumes before next Saturday's Greek Night. None of my costumes fit properly, yet again. This time because of getting in shape and not from gaining weight. I am seriously thinking about selling Hopes and Dreams and the Glitter Dot costumes despite the work I recently put into them. They are too big and I think I would rather sell them to someone who needs them instead of ripping them apart to refit.

Everyone dig out your sewing projects and keep an eye out for the next Sew Along post in the next week or so.

Dreams of Purple

2011-10-31T15:03:00.000-06:00

Naia's costume in her latest photo shoot. The purple color shows accurately in this pic. It turned out perfect. =)

We are slowly settling into our new house but my weekly routine is still out of whack. I am way behind on my exercise routine and costume projects. I did have a fantastic photo shoot recently. Pics of that to come. It is Halloween and I am spending it home and lazy-like. I hope to get back into the swing of things soon.

Alterations for Naia

2011-10-19T10:20:00.000-05:00

I finished up Naia's costume alterations this week. I'm pretty pleased with how they turned out considering this is the first time I've ever altered a costume for someone other than myself. Naia is a big fan of purple and found her dream costume at The Bellydance Shop. Unfortunately, the bra was too small and made weird dents into her chest and the skirt was about 4 1/2inches too short (Naia is 6 feet tall.) She had resigned to sell it, brand new/never worn, when I suggested we try to alter it.

Naia managed to find glittery spandex in the perfect shade of purple to match the skirt. I used scotch tape to secure the bead work along the bottom of the skirt and then cut a 5" strip across the bottom. I made a matching strip from the glitter fabric and then serged it all together with my new machine. The seams are a little ripply because I had to surge the seams twice due to a screw up on my part but they create a wave in the skirt bottom. Once serged together, I stitched down all of the loose/cut bead work and added a new line of trim on the glitter strip to match the rest of the skirt.

My short torso standing next to Naia's skirt. I'm only 5'3".

Inside view of bra extension on left with wire and new lining on right. You can see the original cup at the bottom of this post.

All of the bra padding was ripped out and then bra extensions where added made from layers of felt and interfacing covered with glitter fabric and wired for support. Then I added a new lining to fit the new cup size. Naia added grosgrain ribbon to the under side of the halter straps to keep them from stretching and provide more support.

I really like the mix of crystal and lavender strands of rhinestones on the original design.

Dream costume saved! I hope to see it in action next week. =)

~N

Hips Noir VI Workshop Notes

2011-10-17T23:39:00.002-05:00

Naima, Hips Noir VI, Photo: Beverly Arnoldus

Here are the workshop notes from the class I taught at the Hips Noir VI Dangerously Classy workshop Oct. 8, 2011 with the lovely Marie Demars. This year's workshop turned out super fun despite my sleep dep and muscle fatigue from the previous week's move to our new house. I am stoked to see who Project Vagabond hosts for next year's event. I did my best to write up most of what we covered in class as we did not completely cover what I had on my handwritten notes.
_________________________________________________________

Poses/Posture Drills – Standin neutral dance posture with arms down. Move arms directly into oneof the below frames, hold for a few counts, and then return toneutral. Repeat each pose multiple times (4, 8, etc.) as you would ahip drill. The goal here is to be able to create a beautiful pictureworthy frame every time. Seriously look at yourself in the mirror tomake sure your shoulders are down and back, no limp arms or wrists,head high. Add your own favorite poses to the drill.

“V” arms (keep arms slightlyforward so you can glance to each side)
Straight out (ballet 2^ndposition)
“W” (or low “V,” don’t letarms sag)
“L” both sides

Flow: Now flow between and pause ateach pose: Arms cross and come up through middle opening into “V”,arms open Straight out (2^nd), down into “W”, reverseout and up into “L”, turn in a personal circle keeping good upperbody posture throughout, switch “L” and turn other direction,arms open out and down and repeat from beginning.

Accent Drills – Most Arabicmusic, while counted in 4/4 or 2/4 time, commonly has accents on theodd beats (1, 3, 5, and 7 counts.) An easy way to mimic these accentsand to create muscle memory is by drilling a basic movement usingcounts 1, 2, 3, and holding on 4. Because the last hip articulationis on the 3^rd count or accented count, it will appear tohave more emphasis and look visually more complex and dynamic withouthaving to think too hard.

Hip Bumps: R, L, R, hold, L, R, L, hold(repeat), the count is 1, 2, 3, hold, 1, 2, 3, hold.
Fig. 8 Down (Maya): R, L, R, hold, L,R, L hold (repeat)

Notice that even though you hold on the4^th count you do not restart the movement from thebeginning. Continue they movement in the same direction you wereheading. Practice this drill with all of your basic moves. Practiceat different speeds, half time, full time, double time, etc.

Hip Origami – This hip patternalways flows the same direction. Remember, it is just a hip squarewith 2 detours. Be mindful of the pelvic tucks and drops. No trustingor duck-butting. Keep the movements small and precise. I have broken the pattern down into 3 parts, direction, count, and movement.

Direction:
R-> F-> B-> F-> L-> B->R-> L

Count on the downbeat:
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8

Movement:
R Bump, pelvic tuck, pelvic drop,pelvic tuck, L Bump, pelvic drop, R Bump, L Bump

Once comfortable with the full 8 countpattern add the Accent Drill (1, 2, 3, hold.) Always continue thepattern in the direction you were headed before the hold, don’tstart completely over.

Example: R-> F-> B-> hold->F-> L-> B-> hold-> R-> L-> R-> hold-> F->B-> F-> hold->L-> B-> R-> hold-> …etc.

Once you are an expert on Hip Origamireverse the pattern by starting on the Left and then add the AccentDrill.

L-> F-> B-> F-> R-> B->L-> R

Once you are a Super Expert Genius atHip Origami start the pattern somewhere in the middle and try bothdirections. Add the Accent Drill.

F-> L-> B-> R-> L-> R->F-> B…etc.

Spacing on the Stage
When dancing in a troupe - utilize your peripheral vision making sure you have enough room for uninhibited arms movements. In small spaces take a tiny step forward or back so when you open your arms you won't hit your neighbor. The front row should focus on what is in front of them, (stage edge, audience, etc.) not on what/where the back row is. The back row should focus on staying appropriately spaced behind the front row. If you hit your mark early keep time in place until the next movement begins.
For all dancers - take note of the stage on entering. Where are the stage edges? Is there a drop off any where? Tables, children, or wait staff that you may run into? If you find you've danced yourself into a corner dance yourself back out.

Costume Malfunctions on Stage - If you have a costume malfunction with a removable accessory (gauntlet, jewelry, head piece, etc.) stop and remove it then continue your performance (this includes troupe dances, stop and remove the piece, then join back with the other dancers.) Otherwise, the audience will spend the whole performance staring at a flopping gauntlet or a slipping hip scarf instead of watching you dance. If it is not a removable item, but your body is still appropriately covered, do your best to fix it and then ignore it. If you have the opportunity, you can dance with your back briefly to the audience to fix a malfunction (or wipe your running nose :P ) If your costume malfunctions in a way that inappropriately exposes you (bra straps break, skirt falls off,) stop dancing and leave the stage. Also, wear underwear. Preferably matching underwear.

Above all, remember it is okay to stop dancing. It shows confidence and professionalism to stop dancing and take care of business. A dancer that stops, fixes the problem and then continues dancing cares about her performance and cares about the audience.

How to do The Merengue
______________________________________________________________

Lovely dancers on my right

Lovely dancers on my left

Marie rocking the mustache but I'm just not that classy. I opted for the homely uni-brow instead.

Check out some fantastic pics from the Hips Noir VI show at Chriswerks.

~N

PS I did not proof read these notes.

Moving: It's like this and like that and like this and a...

2011-10-04T20:57:00.002-05:00

Naima. Photo: Bruce Herdman, 09/24/11

We are officially moved into new home. We managed to move everything in a week. I am exhausted and super busy. We lived in the old house 11 years. That is the longest I have ever lived in one place. Ever. I was really anxious about moving at first but I really LOVE our new place. It isn't fancy or new but it is a real "home."

With a dishwasher! =)

Augustus (aka Boober) helps with packing

How not to power off your Xbox360 (it was broken)

I shoots arrows at Xbox good!

The long shot

One of the coolest parts of our new house is the remodeled bathroom complete with "waterfall" shower head, track lighting, and spiffy arches. The toilet is recessed into one of these arch ways which the Husband Person refers to as the "Hide-and-Go-Poop." It makes for a great FaceySpacey profile picture back drop. I think everyone who comes to visit should snap a profile pic of their own as a memento. I took a few to show off my modeling skills.

You would never know I am standing in front of a toilet, would you?

I hope to get back to the Sew Along and regular blogging soon. There is still much unpacking to be done. Until then...

~N

Coin Wrap to Bedlah Sew Along Task 5: Decorate

2011-09-20T10:37:00.001-05:00

Halfway done!

Supplies:

Sew-on acrylic gems
Sequins
Seed beads
Rocaille beads
Beading needle and Beading thread or equivalent (I use upholstery thread)
All-purpose sewing thread and needle

Time to pick up from last week after sewing on the line(s) of coin fringe. If you have not sewn on your fringe, now is the time! My rule of thumb on decorating is if I don't like the way it looks keep adding more. I have never looked at a costume and thought, "Hmmm, not bad... If it only had more sequins." Now is your chance to get creative!

Here is a link list of the beading techniques I have used in my design:

I used a variation of the Rope along the edge of the cups and along the fringe line to cover the stitching. I thought a sequin in middle of each rope would resemble smaller coins and tie in with the coin fringe. It also gives the edges a neat texture.

Ropes along cup edge

Ropes covering line where fringe is stitched to the cups.

Mushrooms beaded around the gems. I could have added Ropes too but it would have been a tight squeeze to fit both.

I chose to switch to Sandwiches along the side straps and bottom of cups because I don't want to scratch my underarms with sequins when I dance. It is also one less thing to get my hair caught in.

Tea Cups used to fill the open space around the gems, Sandwiches and Ropes complete.

Next Task 6: Decorating and adding shoulder straps

Supplies For Shoulder Straps:

Grosgrain Ribbon (or layers of felt, interfacing, or equivalent)
Base Fabric
All-purpose sewing thread
All-purpose sewing needle
Scissors
Pins
Tape Measure
Thimble
Sewing machine, (everything can be hand sewn)

Want to see ALL of the pictures from my bra build? Check out the Flickr Sew Along group and add your own at http://www.flickr.com/groups/bellydancesewalong/.

____________________________________________________________________

On a personal note:

The Husband Person and I are looking for a new place to live. We will be busy packing and preparing for a move so my sew along updates may get a little inconsistent over the next few weeks.

Bonus Pic!

I am in the process of adding a bra extension to dance friend Naia's pro costume. We also added 4 1/2inches to the skirt! Pics of that later.

DanceTastic: Kazumi

2011-09-15T21:11:00.001-05:00

You just have to watch it. She dressed in a wig and apron as part of her costume in the commercial below.

WAKE UP! THE HOUSE IS ON FIRE!

2011-09-15T11:22:00.001-05:00

City Utilities cutting the power to our house as fire dept. looks on.

We started having brown outs around 9am yesterday and I lost internet connection to my work computer (I work from home.) Finally the power to the house went out and I heard a strange banging on the side of the house like hammering. I went outside expecting to yell at the neighbors for cutting my power and saw fire on the side of the house near the meter. I ran back in, woke up the Husband Person and our house guest A.H., got the fire extinguisher and put the visible flames out. The Husband Person called 911 and got our pets out safely. The fire dept arrived super fast (we live near a hospital). They checked the attic, basement, etc. They cut the hole you see in the picture to check the wall for flames. When they opened the hole a big plume of smoke came out but no more flames. They also used a "thermal" camera to check for hot spots while City Utilities(CU) disconnected us from the grid.

The lovely hole cut by the fire dept. to check the wall for fire in the wall.

CU did some work and then A1 Electric came out and replaced the burnt wires and piping. There was also a second fire from the utility pole down the wire to our house around noon. CU/A1 took care of all that and replaced all of that wiring as well. The only damage we have is the hole cut into the siding by the fire dept. Turns out 4 houses on the block were affected by a transformer problem. Other people had smoke, hot lights, and brown outs, but we were the only ones with fire. We had the wires and power restored by 5pm. It only took that long because it rained during the afternoon and slowed repairs.

Flames and smoke were shooting out of the insulated pipe that houses power lines.

The fire was directly below the kitchen window

It is a little scary to think that this kind of fire could have happened any time and without warning. According to CU our house is wired to handle plenty of voltage but whatever problem the transformer was having caused the wires around our ground wire to heat up to the point of catching fire. Also, with the fire being outside like it was we would have not smelled smoke or heard a detector go off until the fire was much bigger. If it was not for the weird banging noises I would not have gone outside to look. Luckily, I am required to keep a fire extinguisher on residence due to my home office arrangement. Without it there could have been much more damage.

It has become a joke that we've been saving up to have a house fire just for when A.H. came to visit. He has been a real trooper and totally understanding. The 3 of us treated ourselves to a big sushi dinner after everything was back to normal.

The lesson learned: If you ever hear strange banging outside your house go check it out!

~Naima (fights fires in her PJ's and flip flops) Dance

Belly Dancer from YMCA Shares Her Tips

2011-09-13T12:38:00.000-05:00

Belly Dancer from YMCA Shares Her Tips

A video link of Miss B teaching bellydance on the local news.

Coin Wrap to Bedlah Sew Along Task 4: Cutting the Coin Wraps/Design Check

2011-09-12T17:18:00.000-05:00

Supplies:

Coin wrap(s)
Scissors
Fabric glue

This week we are tackling those coin wraps and getting them onto the bra. I am actually doing this project with 2 different color coin wraps, one is red with gold coins, the other is burgundy with silver coins. I am hiding the burgundy/silver under the red/gold. It is a close enough match that no one will notice once the whole thing is put together. I also went ahead and got started on some of the decorative sewing at this point. I knew the layout of my design from the beginning so I did not have to spend too much time pinning things together and staring at the bra trying to decide if I liked it or not. You on the other hand, may spend more time on this part by making sure everything is to your liking before you get into decorating. By all means, take your time here.

My ulterior motive for creating this coin bedlah is to go with the red and gold coin skirt in this post. The bra in the picture is the red/gold coin wrap I've cut up for this sew along. I committed a major (personal) faux pas by simply tacking it to a regular bra with some ribbon to hide the straps just so I could wear the skirt. Once the sew along is over I will have a nice bra to match the skirt AND a matching belt giving me 2 costume options in one.

I cut straight across the bottom row of crochet on each hip wrap. Red and gold on top. Burgundy and Silver on bottom.

Sniffing out those pesky knots and frays in the crochet work. You will want to secure any knots or frays with fabric glue. This will extend the life of the crochet work especially on the cheaply made coin wraps.

Follow the directions on the glue. Add just enough glue to secure the knot. This glue dries clear and flexible but too much and it becomes hard to sew/cut through.

You can use any kind of fabric glue, liquid hem, etc. You can use clear nail polish in emergencies such as at a gig and fringe starts to unravel but it gets very hard and brittle over time. I recommend investing a few bucks into a bottle of fabric glue and doing a spot check on all of your costume pieces, (wraps, belts, bras, fringe, etc.) before wearing them. Glue the loose knots and they will last much longer.

I trimmed the hip scarf fabric even closer to the crochet and tucked it under as I pinned and sewed it on.

I did a lot of re-pinning and repositioning of the fringe until I liked the way it looked. I pinned on the top row of coin fringe first to make a border and sewed it on. Next I sewed on the gem stones making sure I liked their placement. Then I went back and pinned on the second row of coin fringe and sewed it into place.

You can either place and pin every thing on before sewing or pin and sew as you go (like I did.) It is a matter of personal preference and very possibly how much sleep and/or sanity you have on the day you tackle your costume.

Close up with gem stones added, top row of coins only (I wish I could afford glass stones but I can get 12 acrylic stones for $2.)

Gem stones and top row of coins only

I pinned on and sewed the top layer of fringe first to define the top edge where the bead work/gem stones will go. Then I flipped it up out of the way and pinned the second row on underneath.

_________________________________________________________________________

Next Task 5: Decorate (next update Sept.19th)

Supplies:

Sew-on acrylic gems
Sequins
Seed beads
Rocaille beads
Beading needle and Beading thread or equivalent (I use upholstery thread)
All-purpose sewing thread and needle

Want to see ALL of the pictures from my bra build? Check out the Flickr Sew Along group and add your own at http://www.flickr.com/groups/bellydancesewalong/.

Good luck and have fun!

I'm Retiring

2011-09-08T15:00:00.002-05:00

I saw this on one of the Daily Bellydance Quickies. She even has the "face." I give up!

~N

Coin Wrap to Bedlah Sew Along Task 3: Cover the Bra Base with Fabric

2011-09-06T15:06:00.002-05:00

Yes, the darts are folded different from one another. No problem, it will get covered with sequins and coins.

This week's task finishes up bra building by covering the entire bra base with fabric creating a foundation for decorating. I use scraps fabric left over from my wedding dress to cover the bra. It has a satiny shine to it and is almost a perfect match to the red of the coin wrap. I used on solid piece of fabric for each half of the bra and joined them in the middle. I had a lot of trouble getting the second dart to lay right so I just folded it the opposite direction of the other dart. Both darts will be covered so all is well.

Close up of inside stitching along the cup

Fabric pinned into place

Fabric along the curved edge of the cup is snipped to allow the fabric to lay smooth along the edge

Inside view of cups

Inside view

One side covered!

Next Task 4: Cutting the coin wraps, layout and design check (online Sept 12th-ish)

Supplies:

Coin wrap
Scissors
Fabric glue

Want to see ALL of the pictures from my bra build? Join the Flickr Sew Along group and add your own at http://www.flickr.com/groups/bellydancesewalong/.

Good luck and have fun!
~N

BONUS PIC!

Mehndi Makes It Better

2011-09-04T21:16:00.002-05:00

Five dollars and a sharpie = the coolest shoes ever

I found a pair of $5 deck shoes got my sharpie marker, looked up some free mehndi patterns online, and got to decorating. Best tip: use a light touch, press too hard and the ink will run. I'm not sure how long the ink will hold up. I sprayed them with Scotch Guard to help protect the designs. I just can't go stomping through puddles.

Meanwhile, our household has grown by one new member, Asbestos. He was rescued by my sister from a parking lot and is now about 4 weeks old. This sweet little "boober" is the reason I've been falling behind on the sew along. I hope you can forgive me =P

~N

Coin Wrap to Bedlah Sew Along Task 2: Build a Bra Base (Part 2)

2011-08-29T20:36:00.001-05:00

I originally split bra building into 2 parts because I just did not have enough time to complete it by the post deadline. Well, I still haven't finished it. I had a full Bellydance weekend and time with the Husband Person. Building a bra wasn't exactly my top priority. There is another exciting development happening in my household tomorrow that has kept me busy but I'll won't spoil the surprise for that yet.

Part 2 of Task 2 is covering the bra cups with one (or more) layers of reinforcing fabric to give us a smoother and sturdier surface before covering the bra in base fabric. For this you can use interfacing, buckram, canvas, denim, felt, or an equivalent. I completed 1 of the cups before writing this post and I will complete the second before bed tonight. These photos should give you an idea of my progress thus far.

I used up all of the old shirt fabric in the side straps. To reinforce the cups I used denim from some old jeans. I have extended the bottom piece over the side strap giving the cup-strap connection even more stability.

Bottom of cup covered with denim using simple basting and all-purpose sewing thread.

Instead of using a dart I covered the top of the cup with 2 pieces joined in the middle so there would be no bulk under the seam.

Inside view, I chose not to overlap the cup edge with the denim. Overlapping at this stage is up to you and the type of "interfacing" you use. I will however overlap the edge when I cover the bra with base fabric.

View of cup's upper edge. The waviness will disappear as construction continues.

Stitching along lower edge of cup along underwire.

The covered cup is starting to hold a better shape already.

________________________________________________________________________

Supplies needed for Task 3: Cover Bra Base with Fabric (online Sept. 5th)

Base Fabric
All purpose sewing thread
All purpose sewing needle
Scissors
Pins
Tailor's chalk/fabric marker
Thimble

Want to see ALL of the pictures from my bra build? Check out the slide show below. You can join the Flickr Sew Along group and add your own at http://www.flickr.com/groups/bellydancesewalong/. I am so excited to see imposterpockets has already posted to the group page!

Next
Good luck and have fun!

~N

Coin Wrap to Bedlah Sew Along Task 2 Supplemental Videos

2011-08-23T08:22:00.000-05:00

Bra Building tips for you! No sewing, just me talking.

Coin Wrap to Bedlah Sew Along Task 2: Build a Bra Base (Part 1)

2011-08-22T17:42:00.000-05:00

Supplies:

Bra cups (with underwire)
Felt, interfacing, buckram, denim, canvas, equivalent and/or combination of these (I used felt and an old shirt)
All-purpose sewing thread
All-purpose sewing needle
Scissors
Pins and safety pins
Tape Measure
Pattern paper, newspaper, or equivalent
Tailor's chalk/fabric marker
Thimble
Sewing machine, (everything can be hand sewn)

Ok, I'll admit my bra building got a little out of hand. I had 2 old bras of the same type. I decided to keep one set of cups as the base and cut up the other to make cup extensions so that all of the bra base would be from the same materials. It was a good idea as far as repurposing old bras but I don't think I'll do it again. I prefer my old way of making extensions in the same manner I make side straps - multiple layers of fabric hand stitched on. I have ended up with a pretty hideous Franken-bra. Luckily, it all gets covered in "part 2" of bra building with another layer of felt to smooth out the cup surfaces. I intended on having that done for this post but hey, I'm only human. And really wanted to play Xbox instead.

Right, so the goal of this week's task is to get your bra cups reinforced, extented, or otherwise in the shape you want them in (if needed), also make and attach side straps. Next week we will finish off any left over sewing and tweaking the fit before moving on to Task 3 covering the bra with our base fabric.

Here are links about bra building with instructions, ideas, and inspiration, as well as a link to the Costume Goddess' article on how to build a bra (her instructions also show how to use elastic in the straps if you want some stretch in your bra.)

Other posts that show bra building:
http://naimasbellydanceblog.blogspot.com/2011/07/sage-applique-july-2011-bra-building.html
http://naimasbellydanceblog.blogspot.com/2011/04/tar-berries-april-2011.html
http://naimasbellydanceblog.blogspot.com/2011/01/masochist.html

How to build and cover a bra by the Costume Goddess:
http://shira.net/costuming/cg/bra-cover.htm

Where I steal all my costuming ideas, the great and powerful Ozma's costuming photo gallery:
http://www.facebook.com/media/albums/?id=84299390665

Removing side and shoulder straps

Bra guts

Pinning the extensions in place

I thought I'd use my sewing machine to attach the extensions. It worked but the machine pretty much gave me the middle finger by the end of it.

Inside view of upper and side cup extensions. It looks pretty floppy.

Using a homemade pattern from some sketch pad paper for side straps.

I lined up the underwire marks and made a new line (in red) to match the angle of this particular cup.

No need to buy new interfacing. I used the sleeve of an old shirt and a few layers of scrap felt to cut side straps. The shirt fabric is thick and canvas-like.

Shirt fabric folded in half so I can cut 2 straps at once.

Two layers of felt and one layer of shirt fabric machine stitched around the edges (front and back view.)

Felt tends to be stretchy/flimsy. Zig zag stitching added for strength.

Side straps hand stitched along the edges and underwire of cups, front view

Side straps hand stitched along the edges and underwire of cups, back view

Once I got the side straps attached I "tried it on." The cups weren't form fitting enough so I added darts in the upper extensions to give them some shape.

Want to see ALL of the pictures from my bra build? Check out the slide show below. You can join the Flickr Sew Along group and add your own at http://www.flickr.com/groups/bellydancesewalong/

Bra Building part 2 coming Aug. 29th! Good luck and I hope to start seeing pictures from your own projects very soon!

~N

Dear Zills,

2011-08-15T20:38:00.001-05:00

I really hate you right now.

I don't mean that in a, “we'll never see each other again,” kind of way. But in a self torturing, “you make me so mad the only way to get back at you is to spend even more time with you and make you suffer with me,” kind of way. It isn't so much about the way you turn my finger tips purple from lack of blood flow under your elastic straps, or no matter how hard I try polishing you after practice you still end up tarnished and gross with oxidized finger prints and smudges on you. No, I can handle that. I can almost write that off as something to show off for all of my hard work. Like a scar or an “I was so drunk” story. No, it is far more complex than that. It is the mental abuse you inflict on me. It is your slow, off-beat, ringing laughter every time I play you with any intention. It is the way you give me encouragement when I am playing a rhythm and as soon as my feet begin to move you choke up and loose the beat. Sometimes you even let me walk around, maybe with a bump of the hip or a 3-step turn, and then you fall silent without a strike or a clang of sound making me have to stop completely and start over. You are like a childhood bully who points at my shirt and when I look down to see what is there you bop me in the nose. And you do it over and over and over again.

You keep me stifled and frustrated. You won't let me alternate between simple rhythms. You won't let me speed up enough to play along to songs I like. You just keep demoralizing me. You keep leading me on only to let me down. When I talk to my friends about you they seem to think you are just great. “Zills? Oh yeah, zills are pretty awesome.” You must really be pulling the wool over their eyes to make them give you such compliments.

I don't understand why you deal this kind of abuse to me. Is it because I ignored you for the first 10 or so years we were acquainted? Is it because I gave too much of my time to others and now that I want to be friends you are punishing me? Was I too into learning stupid-human Bellydance tricks spending all my time balancing swords and fire on my head? Was I too involved with editing music for a show you would never be invited to? I could see how you might be bitter about this but come on, I was young and stupid. I didn't have the sense to work out our differences in the beginning. I only wanted to do what was fun and easy. Don't hold the ignorance of youth against me.

If you would just tell me what you want I will do it. Do you want me to memorize rhythms like 3-1-3-1-3 and 3-3-7? Do you prefer me to alternate hands or play only on the dominate side? Do you want me to practice with combos overlaid with zills or just improv until my hands and body sync up? Really, what do you want? God knows I've tried to satisfy you but you just keep playing hard to get.

You know, I'm really ready for this relationship to just move on. I know I should just accept my karma, man up, buckle down, and take my licks. I just wish we didn't have to fight like this. I don't understand why our relationship has to be so difficult. Why is it always so hard with you?

Well, I really didn't mean to ramble on like this. I hope you are doing well, all things considered between us. I look forward to hearing from you again. Maybe tomorrow. Maybe when I get off work we can try talking again. I hope things start to go better between us.

Sincerely,

Naima

I'm not really mad at my zills. I started zill practice off ok. Tried a few combos and it started going downhill. Tried improv to a fun song. Things got worse. I finally gave up and was sitting, arms crossed, lip out, pouting. So I decided to write my zills a letter. And you know, I actually feel pretty content now. Read Natalia's much funnier letter to her zills.

Bellydance Tao

2011-08-15T13:19:00.000-05:00

I wish I could remember exactly what the "Elvis" is.

When I choose a song for a choreography I literally listen to it for hundreds of hours. Over and over. There have been days that I listen to a song for 8 hours straight on repeat while I work. I sometimes get so caught up in the details of its every little nuance, what movement should go where, how will this translate to the audience, etc. that I begin to hate it. I begin to think my song choice is all wrong. That the audience won't like it. They'll be bored with it. My costume isn't right. I might not do the song justice.

I over analyze. I second guess.

I forget that in reality, the audience will be hearing the song with fresh ears. Seeing me with fresh eyes. I forget that the only way I could ruin their experience is to not dance to the song at all.

~N

Dance Tastic: Marko Kalc

2011-08-10T10:59:00.000-05:00

Marko Kalc - Hoop Dance - Impro from Marko Kalc on Vimeo.

A wonderful hoop dance video featuring Marko Kalc of Croatia. It is lovely hoop work and beautiful dancing, but, I am totally entranced by his feet. Seduced even. Maybe it's the one shoe with white laces. Maybe not.

Coin Wrap to Bedlah Sew Along Introduction and Task 1

2011-08-09T08:21:00.001-05:00

Introduction: First and foremost, this WILL NOT be a simple beginner style costume with some strategically placed hip wraps masquerading as a Bellydance costume. We will be making an actual bedlah (Bellydance bra and belt,) using the coin wraps to embellish the design.

With most sew alongs there is usually a pattern that everyone works from using the same materials and same set of directions. In the case of this sew along there is no pattern and supplies will very based on each person's budget and style. Think of “coins” as the overall theme to this sew along. I chose to make a bedlah from coin wraps because I won't have to hand bead all of the coins or make fringe, thus saving some time. You DO NOT have to use coin wraps but any coins, charms, or similar items will work. Use the embellishments YOU want. Make this YOUR costume.

With each sew along update I will give you a task to work on, show pictures of my progress, and give you tips and ideas as you sew along with me. I will start with the bra followed by the belt. I will also be re-purposing items from around my house into the construction of the bedlah. You may want read each week's update for ideas before purchasing new fabric, etc. I have made a supply list that includes every item I will be using to create my bedlah. Use this list as a guide to help get you started on your own costume.

I have set up a Flickr group for us to share costume pictures. Take lots of pictures! I have learned so much over the years by looking at pictures posted by other costumers. Feel free to whine and cry in the comments section when you are having a hard time. We can help each other get past those rough spots. It may seem a little overwhelming at first, but taken in small chunks, I know we can create some great costumes!

One last note, I'm not sure if these will be weekly or biweekly task updates. I've never created a sew along before. It will be a learning experience for us all =)

Task List:

Design and gather supplies
Build a bra base
Cover the bra base with fabric
Cutting the coin wraps, layout and design check
Decorate
Decorating and adding shoulder straps
Lining, hooks, and finishing
Make a belt pattern
Build a belt base
Cover the belt base
Decorate
Lining, hooks, and finishing

Supply List:

2 matching coin hip wraps
8mm sequins
Rocaille beads
Seed beads
Sew-on gem stones
Hooks and eyes
Bra cups (with underwire)
Base fabric
Lining fabric
Felt, interfacing, buckram, denim, canvas, equivalent and/or combination of these
All-purpose sewing thread
Beading thread, Upholstery thread, or equivalent
All-purpose sewing needle
Beading needle
Scissors
Pins and safety pins
Tape Measure
Pattern paper, newspaper, or equivalent
Tailor's chalk/fabric marker
Grosgrain ribbon
Scotch tape
Fabric glue
Thimble
20g Jewelry wire*
Sewing machine, (everything can be hand sewn)*
Additional coins, charms, fringe, trim*
Patience

*Optional

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Task 1: Design and Gather Supplies

Before you begin you need to have a rough design of the final costume in order to gather the corresponding supplies. This means to pick your colors, fabrics, and decide on the shape of the bedlah. What style costume is this, Cabaret, Tribal, other? What is the color scheme? Do you want a straight or V-shaped belt? What is the strap placement? etc.

Gathering my embellishments, coin wrap, rocaille beads, seed beads, sequins, sew-on gems.

My bedlah will be made with a red base fabric covered with red and gold drapes from the coin hip wrap. The bra will have beaded shoulder straps and a V-shaped belt using coin drapes in place of fringe. The upper edges of the bra and belt will have gold beads and sequins to match the gold coins and additional gem stones for bling. I also want a matching necklace and maybe some cuffs if I have enough coins to spare. I might add some sort of broach or appliqué in the center of the belt for added interest (depends on what I can find.)

Most of my non-coin embellishments will be sequins and gem stones. If you are leaning to a more Tribal style, try using shells, metal or wood beads, yarn tassels, or other embellishments. Steampunkers could use cogs and watch parts, maybe some velvet and lace. Goth gals could use their favorite rivet-head jewelry, grommets, leather or vinyl. And by all means, use what you already have lying around the house. Sketch out your design on a piece of paper. You don't have to stick to it but it will be your jumping point into construction.

This is a super cheap coin wrap I received as a gift. I have another I won at a raffle that I will use for the belt.

Looking for cheap coin wraps around the $20 mark?

http://www.isisexchange.com/Belly_Dance_Hip_Scarf_s/42.htm
http://www.moondancebellydance.com/product/0.0002052/Deluxe_Velvet_Gem_Wave_Hip_Scarf_MD2052.aspx
http://mariajju.com/bellydance/hipscarf1.html

--------------------------------------------------------------------------

I'll wait 2 weeks before posting Task 2. That will give everyone some time to design and gather supplies. I will have a Sew Along link in the menu in case you get lost.

Supplies needed for Task 2: Build a bra base (online Aug.22nd)

Bra cups (with underwire, I am using an old bra that has bad elastic)
Felt, interfacing, buckram, denim, canvas, equivalent or combination of these
All purpose sewing thread
All purpose sewing needle
Scissors
Pins and safety pins
Tape Measure
Pattern paper, newspaper, or equivalent
Tailor's chalk/fabric marker
Thimble
Sewing machine, (everything can be hand sewn)*

Notes to Self

2011-08-07T20:15:00.000-05:00

A reminder to start drills on the left (because I never start left,) and to stop transitioning out of one move into the other before it is completed.

R, R, Holy Cow, R, Holy Cow, R, L from Belly Dancing Basics.

Zills with muffs

Note to self: You may be sweaty, tired, and mentally drained (after drilling)...but you're still a pretty pretty princess.

The sew along poll has closed with 10 want-to participants, 2 sewingly-challenged, and 5 voyeurs. Thank you all for voting allowing me a chance to gauge the interest for this project. I am working on it right now and intend on having a supplies list and schedule up very soon.

~N

Zills of Suck

2011-08-05T08:39:00.000-05:00

Been working on my zills of suck again this week. With a record breaking temperature of 108F I don't really have the energy to move anything other than my fingers. I've literally been laying in bed in front of a fan on my back with my arms in the air zilling. And they still suck. But you know, I've decided to say that with a bit of pride. The way people use the words 'bad' and 'sick'. I picture the following conversation in my head.

"Yo, whaz up?!"
"Yo, I got zills of suck!"
"Fo'realz!" Followed by high-fives and posturing.

Really, my zill playing isn't that bad. It is still just very challenging and frustrating. That is one of the reasons I still don't know how to play and dance with them. I have found an excuse out of learning for too many years. I got to suck it up if I want zills of suck.

Word,
~N

Greek Night @ Galloway Station August 27th

2011-07-30T10:26:00.001-05:00

Couscous I LOL you

2011-07-29T09:52:00.000-05:00

About the magnificent award-winning Couscous, the cheapest belly dancer in Sacramento!

"Dancing since the womb, Couscous was inexplicably drawn to dance costumes at age one, where she displayed natural ability to wear dance costumes. After a lifetime of various other dance forms & stalking the cheerleading squad that she didn't make 4 years running, and living all over the greater Sacramento area, she found her true calling in bellydance. After seeing a few belly dance videos on YouTube, she thought, "I can do that", and so was born Couscous the bellydance star."

There is even a video or her amazing skills!

Sew Along Poll

2011-07-27T09:13:00.000-05:00

My birthday present arrived in the mail on Monday =)

I just read a comment from Blue Faerie with a suggestion for a costume sew along. I must admit she's ruined my whole day. It's all I can think about. But before I run myself ragged trying to put a sew along together I am going to post a poll to see how many would like me to do a costuming sew along or just continue posting my projects as before. Remember, a sew along means that you would work on your own (similar) project at home, on your own, with your own supplies, time, etc. We could share pictures and tips as we work together on the project.

If enough of you lovely readers out there would want to participate I'll start putting together a project for us to start, say mid August. You can respond to the poll on the side bar of this blog through August 7th, 2011. Once the poll is over it will be removed.

Gold Workhorse Maintenance July 2011

2011-07-26T08:57:00.000-05:00

Some pics of my old gold bra I have been slowly rehabbing back to life. You may remember I started ripping it apart and adding cup extensions to it sometime last year. I added about 1.5 inches to the top edge of the bra, repaired the broken fringe, missing sequins, added completely new hooks, shoulder straps and lining, and added some acrylic gem stones for extra bling.

Originally, the bra had looped stomach fringe along with straight fringe on the cups that mimicked the belt fringe. I ripped the straight fringe out years ago because it was too boob-tastic for my liking. I left the looped stomach fringe and sun-catcher stone hanging from the bottom. For the rehab, I have added tear drop gems to mimic the sun-catcher's shape and intend on adding them to the belt at a later date.

Detail of gem stones and new cup extension connected with a new row of silver "Ropes". The new gold sequins are larger and a slightly different color.

Instead of ripping out sequins and imbedding the gem stones I just tacked them on top of the original beadwork. It was actually harder than it looks. The bra is made out of something akin to titanium and almost impossible to poke a needle through. We will see how long the gems last floating on the surface.

Back hooks and broken sequins replaced. Fresh new lining, Hooray!

The old straps and left over bra fringe from the original purchase are transformed into matching arm bands.

Gold belt rehab is next. It should not take as long as the bra. Right now, the belt is in one piece and wearable. Having just gotten the bra back together I do not want to take the belt apart. I have missed wearing this set.

~N

Now listening: IAMX
Mood: Fried Chicken and coleslaw

Sage Applique July 2011 - Bra Building

2011-07-25T09:39:00.002-05:00

I found a chunk of the original belt made with antique black velvet still intact. It had weird mesh covered snap closures. The last piece I scavanged for parts before throwing the old belt away.

Taking stock of all of the fringe.

Now some bra building. I have no set way in which I make my bras. It varies depending on my supplies and the finished look I want. Sometimes, I'll change my mind half way through. Other times I screw up and have to take out or add something in the middle of the whole process.

There are a few things I always try to include in my design as a matter of personal preference and comfort. First, I like my bras to be sturdy so they hold everything up nice and pretty. No stretchy bits or elastic in the sides or straps. I also choose to make my side straps one solid piece instead of the open version made from narrow strips that connect around the rib cage. While easier to adjust and replace, the open style cannot distribute the weight of my bust evenly enough and makes my back look squishier than it really is. Like tying a string tight around a marshmallow.

An example of 2 lovely bras by Ozma with "open" side straps.

I also prefer, completely as a matter of personal preference, to build the bra base, cover it, and decorate it all as one piece. Rather than covering and decorating the cups and side straps separately and then stitching them together. I did that with both the Hopes and Dreams and the Blue Glitter Dot costumes. Something about them kept bothering me until I laid them out next my pro-made costumes. My pro-made costumes have bras that are covered as one piece, not pieced together after the fact. I decided that was the weird feeling I was getting about my homemade bras. Now I completely build the bra before decorating. I still save the shoulder straps until the end. It is a little more cumbersome handle while beading but it makes my brain happy.

This bra had nice deep cups but were a little low for my costuming tastes. I added about an inch across the top with some scrap interfacing. I machine stitched this out of laziness. The extensions will get reinforced as the bra gets built. I have also repositioned the bra cups much closer together. I wish bra makers would figure out big boobs does not necessarily mean big rib cage, and vice versa. Seriously, do they think I'm gonna put a can of Coke there or what?

The cups are completely covered with a layer of black felt on the top. There is also an additional layer of felt along the extension on the inside. The cups were hand stitched.

I always reinforce my cups with at least one, if not more, layers of felt, interfacing, denim, etc. before covering them. Always. And, I almost always add these layers to the outside of the cups because of bra shrinkage. Bellydance costumers often recommend using a cup size larger when making a bra because the bra will "shrink" as more and more layers and beads are added. Don't ask me why, just know that they do. I struggle to find cups that fit period. Much less the luxury of buying cups a size bigger. So, if I am going to add bulk to the cup, I add it to the outside instead of the inside. I recommend hand stitching the cups instead of machine stitching. Hand stitching is looser and does not tighten the fabric as much as machine sewing.

View from the inside, you can see the additional layer of felt along the top of the extensions here. Seriously sloppy hand sewing inside the cups.

I used 2 layers of felt reinforced with 1 inch wide grosgrain ribbon for the side straps. Again, materials vary here depending on my current stash of supplies. I machine stitched these layers together because I don't have to worry about shrinkage here as with the cups. If the straps are too tight they can easily be extended. Crazy angled zigzag stitching helps add strength to the straps. When I cut the original side straps off the bra I left flaps on both sides to attach the new sides to. There was extra side boning in the bra that I also left attached *bonus! I machine sewed the side straps to the bra using these flaps as anchors. Much easier than trying to stitch them into the cups.

Covered. If there were ever a use for the word frumpy it would be for this bra. Luckily, it will all get camouflaged with bead work.

My first go around with this costume back in the newb-days I used fabric glue on the appliques to save time on sewing. I don't recommend this at all. It has been a real b*tch to rip the appliques out without damaging them. All the fabric with glue on it had to be thrown away and the appliques are almost impossible to stitch through with a hard layer of old glue on the back.

Bra thus far

Belt thus far

I started decorating the belt in a fairly symmetrical layout. I'm thinking about redoing it now to be more haphazard like the bra. The mixed and matched appliques on the bra look cool. The even-steven ones on the belt look, well, like appliques.

~N

Check the Costume Gallery link above for all posts about this and other costumes I have made.

Postcards From Birthweek

2011-07-18T22:18:00.000-05:00

Acting our age.

Surprise from the Husband Person

Helping

The best "Bellp" Dance Songs I've ever heard.

Personalized hair flowers

"It's chompers had chompers!!"

The Acme Attitude Adjuster

Hooping, I'm sort of addicted.

The best Not-Dancers you'll ever meet.

Earrings. Yeah, they're pretty awesome.

Sewing EXPLOSION!

Crazy was not an option.

Hips Noir VI - Oct. 8, 2011

2011-07-08T13:26:00.000-05:00

The Project Vagabond gals are giving me another go to teach for Hips Noir VI after I canceled last year with bronchitis. I'll get to share the stage with the lovely Marie DeMars.

Facebook event page

~N

Yes, the flyer says the secret art of "Not-Dancing."

Mother & Daughter

2011-07-06T15:53:00.000-05:00

Today is my birthday. My mom is giving me pie. Thanks mom!

~N

BD Vlog 17: Naima Dance

2011-06-29T16:42:00.000-05:00

Some ad lib followed by a very butchered drum solo by Desdemona of TX. My performance at Prepare to Be Amazed Show Featuring Ashley Lopez at Club Vibe, Springfield, MO. June 24, 2011.

I Feel Pretty

2011-06-28T16:54:00.000-05:00

Photo and editing: Chris Bryant, June 24, 2011.

Bellydance Necklace Tutorial Part 3: Lining and Finishing

2011-06-27T09:13:00.000-05:00

Now for the final most important steps, lining and finishing. Don't skimp on this project and decide not to line the necklace to save time. A lining will protect all of the hard work you put into beading as well as soak up sweat while you dance. The lining is lightly stitched into place and easy to remove and replace once it becomes dirty or you need to repair any damage to the decoration.

Bellydance Necklace Tutorial Part 3: Lining and Finishing

You will need:

Sewing needle
All purpose sewing thread
Scissors
"Something Round" used in part 1
Small amount of base fabric or felt (reference part 1)
Marker
1 sew-on snap
Pins (optional)
Iron (optional)

Using the "something round" from part 1 of this tutorial, cut out enough fabric to cover the back of the medallion plus 1/4-1/2 inch allowance. This is the lining. Do the same for both straps. If necessary, use an iron to press the seam allowances so they are easier to fold under during sewing, (see photo.)

Do not include a seam allowance if you are using felt. Felt will not fray and does not need to be folded under. Cut the felt slightly smaller than the medallion and straps so that it will cover the back but not hang over the edges, (not pictured.)

Lightly tack lining to the straps by folding the edges under and stitching along the folded edge of the lining and into the back edge of the strap. Use pins to hold the lining in place if needed. Only stitch through a small amount of fabric. Do not stitch into the bead work, (see photos.)

Once both straps are covered, cover the medallion in the same way. Make shallow cuts around the curve of the lining fabric. This will help the fabric lay flat as you fold it under. Be careful not to cut these too deep. I was too zealous with my cuts and had to start over with a new piece of fabric.

Sew a snap closure on the ends of the straps according to the instructions on the package.

Congratulations, you are done! Pat yourself on the back.

Here are some things to consider when making your own beaded necklace:

Design - My primary dance style is cabaret so my necklace is gold and flashy. However, these techniques will work if you are a Tribal, Fusion, or other style dancer. Change the color scheme to darker fabrics and beads that more appropriately fit your look. Instead of glass beads use wood, metal, or shell. Add charms or a piece of kuchi to the medallion instead of an overly feminine flower. Add bells or coins to the fringe tassels. You get the idea.

Time - This project took me around 7 hours over the course of 3 days to complete from start to finish, (not counting shopping for supplies.) Granted, I did stop and start often to take photos but I have also made this style necklace before and already knew what I was doing. Keep this in mind before diving into a major costuming project. Do you really have the time and patience for such a commitment? Would it be worth the money to buy pre-made costumes instead of spending so much time creating them? Just a thought.

Supplies - I did not specify the amount of sequins and beads to buy because they are sold by weight not quantity. I did a final count of the bead work for curiosity's sake and here are my numbers. Now you can appreciate how much work goes into beading costumes.

66 Sandwiches
126 1/2 Ropes
12 Rope Arches
4 Tassels
34 Fish Scales
3 extra seed beads in the flower

For a grand total of 19 seed beads, 166 sequins, and 1373 rocaille beads.

I hope you enjoyed this tutorial and are able to apply some of these techniques to your own costuming projects. This necklace will be raffled off as part of YIP Podcast's upcoming Propapalooza workshop. If you haven't already, go check them out. They're a hoot! I made sure to put my cooties on the necklace first...I mean model it. =P

~N

The Under Appreciated Drone

2011-06-23T10:23:00.000-05:00

Moiroloï from Premeti - Nikos Kyrios, violin and Jonathan Lewis playing as the drone.

I am really into drones right now. Before I began Bellydancing I had never heard of a drone (in music). I had not heard of a lot of things, actually. A drone is

"...where a note or chord is continuously sounded throughout most or all of a piece. The word drone is also used to refer to any part of a musical instrument that is just used to produce such an effect."

To me, as a dancer, a drone is a continuous vibrating sound wave that I don't just hear but feel in my body. Like a never-ending low hum. It is both a physical and an cerebral response. The use of a drone some how gives the music a deeper texture, heat and weight that it otherwise would not have.

You can hear drones often in Arabic music, particularly at the beginning and throughout most taqsims. There are usually multiple players of the same instrument so one or more can be the drone while the others can play the melodies. For wind instruments, the drone often uses a technique called circular breathing. He both breathes in and blows out without breaking the flow of air to the instrument. This creates the non-stop sound produced. The same type of breathing is used to play a didgeridoo.

Sitting to the left behind the singer is the drone rebab player while the rebab player on the right echos the melody.

This video features an Arghul which has a built in drone - two tubes one of which is the drone. The cool thing about this arghul player is that he uses circular breathing.

The next time you listen to your dance music see if you can pick out the drones and give a little love to them the next time you dance.

~N

At this very moment

2011-06-22T21:21:00.000-05:00

Me, right now.

...editing music for Friday night's Prepare to be Amazed: Bellydance Show Featuring ASHLEY LOPEZ! I picked 3 songs. I've cut them down and edited them together into a 6 minute piece. That's under par for the show but still a little long in my opinion. I keep listening to my edit on loop to see if the breaks are spaced correctly. I'm getting tired but it has to be done tonight.
~N

Bellydance Necklace Tutorial Part 2: Decoration

2011-06-20T16:55:00.001-05:00

We will be using the following beading techniques to decorate the necklace. Please be familiar with each before moving on.

Supplies and Tips, Ropes, The Sandwich, Fish Scales

Bellydance Necklace Tutorial Part 2: Decoration

You will need:

Beading thread
Beading needle
Scissors
Sequins 8mm or smaller, or both (you'll see what I mean)
Seed beads
Rocaille beads
Tray/lid to hold your beads (optional)
Thimble (optional)

There are many pictures to follow. To help keep things clear here is a summary of beading sections for each part of the necklace.

Fish Scale flower in center of medallion.
Row of Sandwiches around flower and down the middle of each strap.
Ropes around edge of medallion and down each side of both straps.
Rope arches around outer edge of medallion.
Tassels.

1. Fish Scale flower in center of medallion.

Start by making a flower in the center of the medallion. Begin stitching on a circle of Fish Scales and continue circling inward keeping the sequins tightly overlaid.

I was halfway through the flower when I decided to change from 8mm gold sequins to smaller iridescent sequins. You do not have to change sequins. This is completely optional but looks pretty neat.

Once you reach the center add 3 seed beads in the center to finish the flower.

Tiny iridescent sequins in the center of the flower (seed beads not shown here.)

2. Row of Sandwiches around flower and down the middle of each strap.

I decided to use the smaller sequins for the rest of the necklace as well. I am working with what I have and designing on the fly.

Next, using sequins of your choice and rocaille beads, make a ring of Sandwiches around the flower. Then place a row of Sandwiches down the middle of each strap. Leave an inch at the end of one of the straps un-beaded. This space will be where we sew on the snap.

Sandwiches on a strap

A 1inch section left for a snap.

3. Ropes around edge of medallion and down each side of both straps.

Medallion Ropes from top view

Add an outline of Ropes around the ring of Fish Scales on the medallion and down both sides of both straps.

Medallion Ropes side view

Medallion Ropes complete

Ropes down edge of strap

Another view of Ropes on strap

Close-up of Rope work on strap

It was somewhere around this point I decided there was too much yellow fabric showing around my flower. I stitched a few extra Fish Scales around the outer edge of the flower using more of the iridescent sequins to fill it in. You can see them in this picture. This is more designing on the fly.

4. Rope arches around outer edge of medallion.

Next is a variation on the Rope technique to line the outer edge of the medallion. Pull the threaded needle up through the very outer edge of the medallion next to one of the straps. Load 4 rocaille beads, 1 seed bead, and 4 more rocaille beads onto your needle. Instead of laying the Rope flat, insert the needle close to where the thread comes out of the fabric to create an arched Rope.

First Rope Arch from the back

Inserting the needle preparing for the next Rope Arch from the back

Continue to bead arches around the outer edge of the medallion by inserting the needle right next to the previous stitch, (see photo.)

Rope Arches from the top

I did not bead arches between the two straps. I preferred the way it looked without a complete circle of arches. You can bead all the way around if you like. It is your choice.

5. Tassels

Tassels are something I have not previously covered on a tutorial but are very easy. The length of the tassels is up to you. You can make them all the same length or various lengths.

Insert the needle near the center bottom of the medallion in the back layers only. Do not stitch all the way through. Load a string of rocaille beads onto the needle followed by 1 seed bead. Slide all of the beads down toward the medallion but not completely flush.

Insert the needle back through all of the rocaille beads but not the seed bead. Pull the thread tight to create a tassel. The seed bead on the end acts as a stopper to keep the rocaille beads from sliding off. Tie the thread off with a few stitches on top of each other next to the original stitch into the fabric and begin the next tassel. Continue adding tassels until you are satisfied. Tie off and trim the thread.

Be sure not to pull the tassel thread super tight. You want it to have a little room to dangle and not stick out completely straight. Give each tassel a little wiggle to see if it swings freely before you tie it off.

We are finished with decorating! Here is what the necklace looks like so far.

Back of necklace

Front of necklace. Notice, after I took this picture I decided I wanted 4 tassels instead of 3. There are 4 in the very top photo of the tutorial.

Next - Bellydance Necklace Tutorial Part 3: Lining and Finishing

Thru Jerusalem

2011-06-20T09:08:00.000-05:00

A video of musicians in Jerusalem pieced together to create great Arabic flavored music. I especially like the layers of oud, guitar, and violin around the 3:50 mark.

"special tnx to the local musicians who create the sound of Jerusalem.
In This piece I didn't browse YouTube, I actually wandered around Jerusalem , met with musicians and filmed them. "

Sousaphone - Udi Raz http://www.myspace.com/udiraz
brass & Groove - Marsh Dondurma http://marshdondurma.com/
Kanun - Safi Swaid
Darbuka - Hani Asad
Viola - Emmanuel Witzthum http://www.myspace.com/digitalkaballah
Drum Kit - Uriel Sverdin
Mpc & Turntable -- Guy Mar www.guymar.com
Dahul- Ittai Binnun http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hBWpzfapGTI
Baglama - Tomer Katz www.perachadom.co.il
Biovon - Amir Bolzman http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WQ7DnvySHFM
Oud - Loab Hammoud
Guitar - Ophir Even Odem http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ag2K33JUvto
Guitar - Lazer Lloyd http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hI-281I8-qU
Violin - Michael Greilsammer http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LjIRffYH48c
Vocal - Shimrit Greilsammer http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LjIRffYH48c
Saxophone - Yarden Klayman httphttp://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hFtgoSTpRj4
stay tuned:
http://twitter.com/#!/kutiman/

Jerusalem Season of Culture:
http://www.jerusalemseason.com/

Ashley Lopez Workshop & Show in Springfield

2011-06-17T08:37:00.000-05:00

SHOW: featuring Ashley and our fabulous local dancers on June 24th at Club Vibe! Doors open at 8 and show starts at 9!

WORKSHOPS: June 25th from 11AM-3PM (hour break for lunch) and June 26th from 1PM-3PM at SBDA 1550 E. Battlefield Springfield,MO (Use... West Entrance by Benton Blinds)

http://ashleylopez.eventbrite.com/

http://www.ashleylopezbellydance.com

Bellydance Necklace Tutorial Part 1: Construction

2011-06-16T16:43:00.001-05:00

It is time to put together the beading techniques you have learned into a wearable piece. Making a necklace is much more attainable than jumping into bra and belt decorating.

I have broken this tutorial into 3 parts for sanity's sake. Take note that each part of the tutorial has a different supplies list.

Bellydance Necklace Tutorial Part 1: Construction

You will need:

All purpose sewing thread
Sewing needle
Scissors
Pins
A Marker
Tape measure or ruler
1yard (36 inch) grosgrain ribbon, 3/8inch wide*
Small amount of base fabric*
Small amount of felt or interfacing to cut medallion shape*
"Something round" between 1 and 3/4inch - 2inches diameter

* The finished neck measurement in this necklace is 16 1/2 inches. Adjust the amount of ribbon, fabric, and felt based your own desired finished length.

Start with 2 pieces of felt or interfacing laid on top of each other. Take "something round" (I used a candle holder,) and trace it's shape onto the felt with a marker. This will be the medallion of the necklace. Keep your "something round" between 1 and 3/4inch - 2inches in diameter. A toilet paper tube would also work.

Next cut your grosgrain ribbon into two 18 inch pieces. Fold each ribbon in half creating two 9 inch pieces. These will be the straps of the necklace, (each strap is 2 layers of ribbon thick.)

Cut out enough base fabric to cover the medallion and straps plus 1/2inch allowance around each piece. Pin the fabric to the medallion and straps.

Shallow cuts around the curve of base fabric

Once pinned in place, make shallow cuts around the base fabric of the medallion. Do not cut the slits all the way to the middle. This will help the fabric lay smooth around the curve of the circle as you stitch it down.

Back of medallion

Use the needle and sewing thread to Tack the fabric onto the felt. I make my stitches wide across the bottom with only a little thread showing on the top.

Front of medallion

Once the medallion is covered tie off and trim the thread. Do not worry if the stitches are even. They will be covered with beads and will not show.

You can machine sew the fabric on. I am showing you how to hand sew the fabric in case you do not have a sewing machine or you are intimidated by it. It is up to you.

Cover the two straps in the same way you covered the medallion but without snipping the edges.

Hand sewn medallion, strap, and machine sewn strap

Here is a picture of the covered medallion and straps. I machine sewed the bottom strap just to show you that it is possible. The down side to machine sewing is that it is difficult to keep the ribbon and fabric from shifting around while stitching it down. You can see in the photo the bottom strap does not lay flat like the hand-sewn one. However, it won't matter once everything is beaded. I did not even bother to change out my white bobbin thread.

Medallion with straps attached from the back

Pin the straps to the medallion and place around your neck to check the spacing. Don't poke yourself in the neck with pins! Once you like the way it looks tack the straps onto the medallion.

Medallion with straps attached from the front

The necklace is now ready for decorating. It may look a little lumpy now but it will come together once we decorate it.

Next: Bellydance Necklace Tutoral Part 2: Decorating

Bolly Hoop Fusion

2011-06-16T08:47:00.000-05:00

I spoke too soon. Another Hooping video this time some Bollywood style dance by Neha Vinjapuri.

Bellydance Hoop Fusion

2011-06-16T08:31:00.000-05:00

A video of Unity performing a fusion of Bellydance and Hooping. This is very much a Bellydance focused performance using the hoop as you would any other prop. Thumbs up for dancing with live musicians.

Another BellyHoop Fusion performance by Adelaide. At first, I saw mostly great Hooping with a couple of Bellydance moves thrown into the mix. But once I mentally removed the hoop, put her in a big flowy skirt and looked at it through Gypsy/Rom glasses I saw more Bellydance than at first glance. The big movements, sassy turns and kicks are there. Even a little hair tossing. The music choice is pretty obvious too. I like watching how captivated the audience is sitting in the background.

Enjoy

(N)

DanceTastic: Miim

2011-06-07T12:35:00.000-05:00

One of these dancers is a life-size free standing robot. Can you guess which one?
TECHNOLOGY! Have some. Read more about Miim here.

~N

March Through June

2011-06-07T10:27:00.001-05:00

Theater Techniques for Dancers with Jon Herbert

Bhangra with Mouse

Stretching out before Jim Boz workshop.

Pre-show wearing a borrowed, "I love cowboys!" t-shirt.

Am I throwing the veil or is it being delivered from Heaven? "Do you have any sandwiches up there?"

Veil Technique with Naia

Tutorial Teaser

2011-06-06T09:49:00.000-05:00

Just a little taste of the next tutorial coming up. We will be making, beading, and finishing something from scratch. It took me around 7 hours to complete. I'm pretty happy with it. I had to divide the tutorial into 3 parts so it isn't ready for posting yet. I think everyone will enjoy it.

~N

Now watching: Black Butler

State of the Union in Naimaland

2011-06-02T22:35:00.000-05:00

Dance
Right, so I haven't done much of it. Creatively speaking that is. I have been going through the motions every few days but I have so much else on my radar right now it has not been a priority.

Miss B. gave me another pair of zills to practice with and I did try hooping and zilling at the same time. That was crazy. I am working on a duet with Miss B. for the next Inappropriate Hafla, I substituted 4 beginner classes for Springfield Bellydance Academy, I am still doing privates every Thursday, and, I got my 3rd Jim Boz workshop under my belt. I also took a private with Jim and it is still sinking in. Despite all of that, I have been putting all of my creativity into other things.

Exercise
Some folks know that I have changed my exercise routine from when I feel guilty to 15min. a day/5 days a week. I have been doing this since January 2nd, only missing a few in the past 5 months. I have lost at least 10lbs and 2 1/2 inches off my Bellydance waist (the place I wear my Bellydance belts). I actually completed my 100th workout today.

I've stayed on target for 3 reasons. First I work out during my lunch break. I never actually eat during my lunch break. I eat more of a brunch and at mid-afternoon. I also work from home which means I don't have drive to the gym, change clothes, or be otherwise inconvenienced. That means 5 days of scheduled workouts.

Second, the Husband Person set up our old Xbox in the bedroom with the Yourself!Fitness game for me. I basically have a personal trainer and the exercises evolve as I get more in shape. Fifteen minutes flies right by.

The third reason is also related to my job. January was my 10 year anniversary with my company. I received a Thank You letter and a gift card. It made me really depressed to think that all I had accomplished in 10 years was literally sitting on my ass. So I got off it. Now I am feeling and looking better. Go me.

This leads me to Hooping.

Hooping = More time outdoors in a month than the past 10 years.
I have been hooping for well over a month now. It is seriously one hell of a workout. And since I dig it so much I burn an extra 400 or so calories every hour I hoop. I spend more time outdoors because of it too. My mom is even interested. I am making her a hoop so she can start hooping.

Tour de Halo
My free time not spent dancing or hooping is with the Husband Person. We usually catch up on movies/TV or playing video games together. This past week we replayed all of the Halo games in chronological order starting with Reach, Halo 1, Halo 2, and Halo 3. We have not played Halo Wars or ODST yet. We also watch reruns of Entourage, How I Met Your Mother, and The New Adventures of Old Christine.

Reading
The Way Ladies finished up Walking in this World by Julia Cameron last month. I am almost finished with Sandworms of Dune by Brian Herbert and Kevin J. Anderson. I am a s l o w reader and refuse to read more than one book at a time. Not much else to say here.

Beading Tutorials
Ah yes, the thing all my readers wait with bated breath for. I have gotten really good feedback about them. Everyone seems to like them so far. I don't know how many more I will do before I've used up the extent of my knowledge base and patience to write it all out. I am currently working on a complete project tutorial where you learn to actually make something from start to finish. It should be fun.

Blogging and Pen Pals
I want to say thank you to all of my readers. There are a lot of blogs I follow as well. Many more than are listed in the sidebar links of my own blog. I have them on Google reader because I am too lazy to go out and check each one every day. I really want to get in the habit of commenting on other blogs more. Even if it is just a, "Thanks for posting," to show my appreciation for all of the knowledge other bloggers share every day. You know, like being the friendly face in the audience while your troupe mate dances.

Finally, I want to address my serious neglect for not mentioning my Bellydance Pen Pal Kis in Australia. We exchanged addresses after Christmas and send each other random little pick-me ups. I get close to giddy when a letter from her arrives in the mail. Getting unexpected notes of friendship and good vibes is awesome! Not to mention, I still feel child-like awe imagining something from the other side of the world is in my hands.

The first card Kis sent me.

Beading Tutorial: Mushrooms

2011-06-02T09:56:00.000-05:00

Mushroom trim on a belt.

In case you were not aware, I have been making up the names for these Bellydance beading tutorials. Mushrooms are actually Rope Sandwiches with only one sequin. I call them Mushrooms because it helps you remember what order to load your beads onto the needle and because the shape of a faceted sequin looks like a button mushroom when placed on top. Mushroom is also easier to say than "half of a Rope Sandwich." I guess it could also be called an umbrella or a lollipop but mushroom stuck so I'm going with it.

Please be familiar with the Rope Sandwiches tutorial before you begin.

You will need:

Beading thread
Beading needles
Scissors
Sequins
Rocaille or seed beads
Tray/lid (to hold your beads)
Thimble (for pushing needle through thick layers of fabric, optional)

First, thread and knot your needle. Pull it through your material where you would like to place the first Mushroom. Load a on your desired amount of beads and top with a sequin facing down. This is your Mushroom - essentially half a Rope Sandwich.

Slide the Mushroom down against the fabric and insert the needle under the loose sequin. For the example in this photo I used the same staggering pattern from the Rope Sandwich tutorial. Just like with Rope Sandwiches, Mushrooms can be staggered, stacked, twisted, or used alone.

Here are some examples of Mushrooms:

An overlapping Mushroom line next to a line of Fish Scales.

This necklace has straps filled with Sandwiches, the jewel is outlined with Ropes and Mushrooms, and everything is edged with Rope trim.

Here is the same necklace made with Sandwiches and Mushrooms. In both cases seed beads where substituted for sequins and bugle beads where substituted for the rocaille beads.

Another view of seed bead Mushrooms with bugle bead steams

Try changing up your bead types and placement for more versatility in your designs. Think about how different a costume could look by changing out just one of the beads for something else. You can have many costumes all with the same design but each look completely different by using one different type of bead. Remember the sky is the limit.

Have fun and good luck!

~N

P.S. It seems the overlying theme of my beading tutorial names is food.

Beading Tutorial: Outlining Jewels with Ropes

2011-06-01T08:00:00.000-05:00

A sew-on jewel outlined with a row of Ropes and Fish Scales

Let's apply the Ropes beading technique we have already learned with some minor alterations to outline a sew-on acrylic jewel. Please refer to the Rope Tutorial before moving on.

You will need:

Beading thread
Beading needles
Scissors
Rocaille and/or seed beads
Crystal or acrylic sew on jewels
Tray/lid (to hold your beads)
Thimble (for pushing needle through thick layers of fabric, optional)

Start by stitching your jewel in place. Next pull the threaded needle up through the fabric against the edge of the jewel. This will be where your Rope will begin.

Load the needle with your desired amount of beads to make a Rope. For this example I chose to add a larger bead in the center of the Rope to give it a neat texture, (four rocaille beads, one seed bead, four more rocaille beads.)

Slide the beads down against the fabric with the Rope hugging the edge of the jewel. Insert your needle through the fabric next to the edge of the jewel and pull tight (see above.)

Pull the needle back up through the fabric between the Rope and the jewel about halfway back down the length of the Rope. In this case, I pulled the needle up between the larger seed bead and the jewel.

Load on beads for your next Rope and repeat the process. I decided to change to silver seed beads so you could see them better in the picture.

A twisted pattern will emerge as you continue around the jewel. The trick to insert the needle as close to the jewel as you can. It may take a few tries to figure out your spacing depending on the thickness of the beads you are using.

So, what happens if you get all the way around your jewel but the last Rope is either too long or too short to finish the outline? No problem. Just add or remove a few beads to the last Rope you place. No one will notice if the last Rope has only 6 beads when the others have 8.

That's it! Now you can add a ring of Fish Scales around the Roped jewel to create the design in the first photograph.

Have fun and good luck!

~N

Beading Tutorial: Rope Sandwiches

2011-05-31T17:03:00.000-05:00

A gauntlet with Sandwich trim on the bottom and Rope Sandwiches on the side. See the difference?

Now the fun begins! Combine the Rope technique with the Sandwich technique by adding a Rope between your sequin "sandwich buns" for even more ways to decorate your costume.

You will need:

Beading thread
Beading needles
Scissors
Sequins
Rocaille or seed beads
Tray/lid (to hold your beads)
Thimble (for pushing needle through thick layers of fabric, optional)

Make sure your are familiar with the Rope technique and Sandwich technique before you begin.

Begin by threading and knotting your needle. Pull the needle through the fabric where you want the Rope Sandwiches to begin. Add one sequin (the bottom "bun" with facet facing up,) your desired amount of beads for the Rope filling, and a sequin (the top "bun" with facet facing down.)

Slide the Rope Sandwich down against the fabric and insert the needle into the fabric where the loose sequin touches it.

We will place the next Rope Sandwich so that they create a staggered pattern. Pull the needle back up through the fabric above the closest sequin.

Load another Rope Sandwich onto your needle and slide it down against the fabric.

Again, insert the needle into the fabric under the loose sequin but in front of the previous Rope Sandwich. Continue staggering Rope Sandwiches to create your design.

Let's apply this technique to the edge of the fabric to give you a clearer view of staggered Rope Sandwiches.

I have placed the first Rope Sandwich along the edge of the fabric, one sequin on the edge, the other slightly away from the edge creating an angle with the Rope Sandwich.

I begin the next Rope Sandwich along the edge of the fabric as well. Notice the the top sequin of the new Rope Sandwich is directly above the bottom sequin of the previous Rope Sandwich.

Here is a line of staggered Rope Sandwiches along the fabric edge. Changing the angle you use when placing them will create different looks. They can be loosely staggered (as above,) stacked in straight lines (like rungs on a ladder,) tightly overlapped like Ropes, etc. Here are more examples of Rope Sandwiches.

An applique trimmed with stacked Rope Sandwiched and filled with staggered Rope Sandwiches.

A bra covered with swirling Rope Sandwiches and a crystal.

Good luck and have fun!

~N

Joplin

2011-05-24T09:00:00.000-05:00

For those not in the area, you may be seeing a lot about the Joplin tornado on the news that came through on Sunday. Joplin is 75 miles west of Springfield, (where I live.) If you are interested in helping or donating please check the KY3.com news site for current links and information. We are expecting more storms tonight.

Stay safe,
~N

All Smiles

2011-05-23T08:07:00.000-05:00

Jim Boz

A few picture highlights by Valerie Fry from this weekend's Jim Boz workshop/show. I decided to post some of my favorite smiles from the evening. More great shots can be found here. I am no good with dance name vs real name. You can find those on the album link.

Hey, I know that lady.

Collide for Free

2011-05-20T13:13:00.000-05:00

Beats Antique has their album Collide available for FREE download! Click on over and get you one.
http://beatsantique.com/2011/music/free-download-of-our-2nd-album-collide/.

In Naimaland this weekend:
Jim Boz workshop and show
Greek Night at Galloway Station

~N

Beading Tutorial: Fish Scales

2011-05-19T13:53:00.000-05:00

A diamond shaped applique covered in Fish Scales

Fish Scales are overlapping sequins laid flat against the fabric to add shine and fill space. Fish scales can be used to trace designs and edge trim. They also work very well for covering places that need to stretch, such as bra straps and sides.

You will need:

Beading thread
Beading needles
Scissors
Sequins
Tray/lid (to hold your beads)
Thimble (for pushing needle through thick layers of fabric, optional)

Begin by threading and knotting your needle. Pull the needle through the fabric where you want the Fish Scales to begin. Add one sequin. If you are using faceted sequins insert the needle from the back with the facet facing up as shown in the picture.

Slide the sequin down against the fabric and insert the needle into the fabric right next to the edge of the sequin.

Pull the needle back up through the fabric right next to where you inserted it. Add another sequin and continue the process. The sequins will begin to overlap each other creating a scale-like pattern.

Let's try changing the direction our scales are traveling to create a flower design. After I stitched down the 3rd sequin I pulled the needle up through the fabric slightly higher than where it was inserted at about the 10 o'clock position, still next to the edge of the sequin, (see picture.) This is where the 4th sequin will be placed.

The Fish Scales are now starting to turn and travel upward.

Continue to slightly move where the thread comes up through the fabric so the Fish Scales begin to spiral backward.

Continue this until you have filled in the spiral with sequins. Notice how the sequins overlap and stick out from the fabric in a little mound.

Add a few beads to the center and we now have a flower design!

Here is the same technique used on a belt - a line of Fish Scales with two flowers sprouting off of it.

Intricate Fish Scale flower and leaves on an applique.

Fish Scales covering side straps on a bra creating an interesting texture.

Fish Scales alternating between tear drop shaped beads to create a fan-shape design.

When laying down Fish Scales it is best to work from top to bottom or outside to in depending on your design. For instance, if you are making flower petals you should start your Fish scales on the outer edge and fill in moving toward the middle where the petals meet.

Have fun and good luck!

~N

Beading Tutorial: Supplies and Tips

2011-05-17T13:45:00.000-05:00

I have received some comments and questions from beginner costumers out there (RetroKali ;) and figured it would be helpful to make a separate post on beading supplies and such to keep you from learning the hard way, (like I did.) I should have done this post first. I am self taught. I probably learned everything in reverse. Oh well, 20/20 hindsight and all that.

This is basic stuff. If you have tips of your own to share leave them in the comments for other readers.

THREAD (reposted with editions)

I use upholstery thread or nylon quilting thread for beading. It is cheaper than "beading thread" and strong enough to keep beads from ripping out too easily. You can find it in multiple colors but a spool of black and white are sufficient. Unless you are using a really unique bead/costume color no one will see the thread once you bead it. Regular cotton/polyester thread is too weak for costuming. Even with two strands thick it will break.

I have spent a good deal of time studying bead work on professional made costumes imported from the Middle East. They are often beaded with a thicker cottony cord-like thread, particularly on fringe. It seems more durable and is harder to break but it also seems to deteriorate faster over time than nylon based thread. I have even seen costumes beaded with fishing line and I have heard of people using dental floss as thread. I have not tried fishing line or floss myself but feel free to experiment and share your tips.

Make sure to tie off your thread frequently. This is a preventative measure in the instance the bead work gets damaged while dancing. You know how aggravating it is when your favorite coin hip wrap snags and all of the bead work starts to unravel. You can prevent all your hard work from unraveling by tying off the thread every 8-10inches of work. Just make a few stitches on top of each other on the back side of the fabric and continue working. You do not have to cut the thread off and start again. This works great on skirt hems that get stepped on. You will loose fewer beads/sequins to damage and only a portion of the bead work will have to be replaced. Not to mention if you botch a design you only have to rip out the little bit you messed up on instead of a really big chunk.

NEEDLES

Six Beading needles in comparison to a regular sewing needle on the right. Notice the difference in thickness.

Beading needles are a must for beading. They are very thin, almost flimsy, allowing them to pass through the holes of very small delicate beads. They are usually longer than regular sewing needles giving you more room to grip while loading bead/sequins on them. Despite their flimsiness they can pass through multiple layers of fabric easily with slow steady pressure. However, you may struggle with very tightly woven fabric or fabric that is stiffened with glue. They will also bend, break, and loose sharpness over time. I once ripped the eye of a very very thin needle out just by giving the thread a good yank. I didn't even think that was possible.

BEADS

There are really no rules as to the kind of beads you should use for Bellydance costuming. I have seen everything from plastic to glass to metal. Important things to consider when buying beads is your design, the longevity/amount of wear the costume will receive, and your budget. I always keep gold and silver rocaille beads on hand. Gold and silver go with everything. And when in a pinch, or if you need to repair a costume in an unusual color, silver will fill in gaps and reflect the other colors around it.

Three kinds of silver fringe, the first two without foil lining, the third with foil lining. The foil lined fringe is much shinier.

Keep an eye out for "foil-lined" beads. Foil-lined beads are coated inside the hole of each bead making them shinier and are more aesthetically pleasing. They may be a little more expensive but definitely worth it.

Plastic beads with the silver paint worn off.

Be warned that painted metallic beads, or any bead with the color painted on will wear much faster than a glass bead or a bead with the color infused into the material it is made from. There is a way to treat beads with a clear coat so the color will not wear as fast but I have never tried it. I have also heard of dancers coating beads, sequins, and coins with clear nail polish to protect from wear. This works in a pinch but is not practical for entire costumes.

SEQUINS

8mm (left) and 4mm sequins

I prefer to use metallic faceted sequins over flat sequins because they reflect the most light. I also use 8mm size sequins the most because one sequin covers more area than 6mm or 4mm. Anything bigger than 8mm starts to look a little cartoony.

8mm Sequins loosing their holographic stickers, also notice the beads are not foil-lined because you can see straight through to the thread.

Beware of sequins with patterned stickers on them. They look fantastic but repeated rubbing and sweat will cause the stickers to peel leaving dirty plastic disks behind. The only way to replace them is to rip them all out and start over.

STORAGE (reposted with editions)

I use a small Girl Scout Cookie tin to hold my beading supplies when I travel and the lid as my bead tray while I work.

I do not spend money on fancy bead trays or dividers. I use old mismatched plastic or cookie tin lids that I would normally throw away. The lip of the lid keeps your beads from rolling away. Old pill bottles and film canisters work great for holding safety pins, beads, needles, etc.

Tip: Do not dump all of your beads/sequins into the tray at once. Pour out only about a tea spoon at a time. No matter how careful you are you WILL at some point accidentally dump your tray. Picking up a small amount of beads out of carpet is much better than a whole bag. This is also handy for quick clean up when you are done working.

I always wondered what good "snack size" plastic storage bags were for. Turns out they are perfect for all things Bellydance. Aside from jewelry, I keep beads and sequins in them because they seal tight, travel well in small spaces, and it is easy to identify what is inside. I add the label from the original packaging so I can match the color and size of the bead/sequin when it is time to buy more.

Styrofoam cooler lids filled up like junk drawers with costuming supplies.

I discovered that instead of throwing them out, styrofoam cooler lids make great beading trays for when I work sitting on the couch or in bed. I flip them upside down and use them like TV trays. The lip keeps bead from rolling away and you can stick your needles into the foam like a pin cushion. I added a clip on LED book light for when I need extra light in darker rooms of the house.

BEADING AIDS/MISCELLANEOUS

Here is a list of some optional items that may help you while beading:

Tape measure - helps keep your designs evenly spaced and semetrical. Also helps you mark placement of straps and hooks.
Tailor's chalk or marker - use this to mark key points on your fabric to keep the design even or trace you design directly on to the fabric. Tailor's chalk and markers are water soluble allowing them to be removed. Test them in a discrete area first to make sure you can remove the marks.
Seam Ripper - I promise you will definitely have to rip something out and redo it at some point. If you don't then you must be a freak of nature. A seam ripper is a must where scissors just don't cut it, (no pun intended.)
Thimble - Use a thimble to protect your fingers when pushing through heavy fabrics.
Needle Threaders - I can take them or leave them. I have just as much trouble pushing the threader through the eye of a needle as I do thread. Luckily upholstery thread is stiff enough that it slides through the needle fairly easily.
Bead grabbers - Those funny little things that fit like thimbles with a small patch of velcro to help "grab" beads from the tray. It will grab beads but I find using it awkward and an unnecessary middleman when I can poke the beads directly out of the tray with the needle. I wish I had my $2 back.
Bead Spinner/Threaders - These are completely awesome and totally worth it if you intend on making your own fringe. Making fringe by hand is quite tedious. With a bead spinner you can thread the beads faster than you can tie the thread off. When and if I get better at making fringe I'll post about it. Until then check out my spinner here.

COSTUME CONSTRUCTION COMMENTS

As for basic costume construction, there are a lot of resources already out on the internet if you look for them. How to cover a bra, how to fit a belt, skirt patterns, etc. I am not going to cover costume construction unless I come up with something extra special to share. I do highly recommend Dina the Costume Goddess' books for Bellydance costume construction and design. I own the Bra and Belt book and still reference it every time I begin a new costume. Dina's books are very thorough and concise. To get an idea of how well they are put together check out the table of contents for Tribal Vibes for Bellydancers.

Have fun and Good luck!

~N

Beading Tutorial: Tea Cups

2011-05-10T16:38:00.000-05:00

This may seem like a no-brainer but sometimes the simplest ideas are the easiest to overlook. Anytime you have some gaps in your design or need to add a little shine to a costume with out overwhelming it you can use Tea Cups.

You will need:

Thread
Beading needles
Scissors
Rocaille beads, seed beads, or other round beads
Tray/lid (to hold your beads)
Thimble (for pushing needle through thick layers of fabric, optional)

Begin by threading your needle and knotting the thread. Insert the needle through the fabric where you want to place a Tea Cup. Slide a sequin on followed by one bead. If using facetted sequins insert the needle from behind with the facet facing up. Slide the sequin all the way down against the fabric. Slide the bead down the thread but not all the way to the sequin.

Insert your needle through the sequin into the fabric and pull tight. This will make a loop around the bead holding everything in place.

That's it! Pretty simple. The beads resemble little tea cups sitting on little sequin plates. Here are two Tea Cups made with different size beads. Have a Tea Party and add Tea Cups anywhere you need a little shine.

A bra covered with Tea Cups to add a little extra sparkle.

A coin covered bra with Tea Cups hidden in the gaps between coins. Can you see them?

An arm band with a row of Tea Cups between two rows of Sandwiches.

Have fun and Good Luck!

~N

Beading Tutorial: Ropes

2011-05-09T18:18:00.001-05:00

Bra straps covered with Ropes in alternating colors.

Here is a tutorial for one of the most used beading techniques on Bellydance costuming, The Rope. Ropes are used to trim edges, outline designs, and add texture to your bead work. Ropes can be combined with other bead techniques to add interest to a design.

You will need:

Thread
Beading needles
Scissors
Rocaille beads, seed beads, or bugle beads
Tray/lid (to hold your beads)
Thimble (for pushing needle through thick layers of fabric, optional)

Start your Rope by threading and knotting your needle. Pull the thread up through the material where you want to begin your Rope. For this tutorial I am using Rocaille beads. Load the needle with as many beads as you like. I usually stick to 6, 8, or 10 per Rope. It doesn't matter as long as you are consistent. Slide the beads down flat against the fabric and insert the needle where the last bead rests on the fabric. This is your first Rope in a series.

Bring the needle back up approximately halfway back down the length of the Rope. In this case I used 8 beads so I counted back 4 beads and pulled the needle through the fabric only. It does not have to be perfect and you may have to try a few times to get the spacing you desire.

Reload your needle with the same amount of beads you used for the first Rope (8) and continue the process by laying the second Rope flat and inserting your needle into the fabric.

Continue laying Ropes and a twisted pattern will begin to emerge.

You can add a bumpy texture to your work by inserting the needle much closer to your starting location which causes the Rope to make a little arch and stand away from the fabric. Continue following the usual Rope technique only arch the Ropes instead of laying them flat.

It is a little hard to see in these pictures, Arched Ropes on the left and regular Ropes on the right.

An example of Ropes used to outline a flower design.

We will do much more with Ropes on the next tutorial. Have fun and Good Luck!

~N

Flow

2011-05-08T21:08:00.001-05:00

Hooping Accomplishments

Bellydance connoisseurs are fully aware that Bellydance is a gateway drug to other things. Costuming, playing instruments, yoga, balancing, fire tricks, burlesque, etc. You may remember my 12 week affair last fall with Salsa dancing. I have recently had the opportunity to take some hooping classes through the Springfield Bellydance Acedemy with Sarah.

Hooping is very athletic. Your body is constantly in motion using repeatative muscle contractions that keep the hoop spinning. It requires endurance and strength. If you research hooping online you will learn about the health and wellness benefits you can gain from hooping, much in the way Bellydance is touted by the media as an "exercise alternative." On the flip side hooping enthusiasts, as with Bellydance, are totally nuts for it. The whole mind-body spiritual experience thing. It changes lives. Opens horizons. Creates peace and love for all ages, sizes, and genders, etc.

I am so addicted.

It is all I can think about. It is all I watch on youtube. I have bruises everywhere. My knuckles, shins, waist, none of which are from hitting myself but from just hooping. It never really dawned on my that if you take a hoop and spin it around a body part over and over it will leave bruises. At least until the skin and muscles toughen up. I guess it is like the karate master who can break bricks in half with his hands. I am sure the first hundred times or so he did it he had bruises too.

I spent over an hour hooping on the front porch last Monday because of the rain. I wouldn't normally practice on the front porch where passersby could see me but I didn't care. I wanted to practice. Needed to. There is just something entrancing about getting the hoop spinning, the rocking of your body, the fluid motion. The repetitive knocking of the hoop on the body is hypnotic. It reminds me of rocking in a rocking chair, or swinging in a swing, or falling asleep riding in a car. It holds your concentration but also allows you to zone out, or maybe get into the zone. Add your favorite music and you can bliss out for hours with nothing but yourself and a chunk of tubing. Hoopers on The Internet call it Flow.

Despite my 2 weeks of diligent practice, I still have moments that feel like I am unceremoniously dry-humping the air. The first time I successfully took the hoop off with my left hand and back on with my right I bragged that I should get a gold star for my accomplishment. Turns out that is exactly what I did. I bought a sheet of gold and silver star stickers. For every accomplishment I make I get a gold star to stick on my hoop. For every bruise or good hard thwack I give myself I get a silver star as kind of an "A" for effort. It gives me something to look forward to and makes my hoop a little more shiny. I don't expect them to stay on. This is my first hoop and I expect it to get beaten up as I newb my way into hooping.

For instance, after today's practice my hoop has grass stains and foot prints but I also get to add one gold star for being able to now take it off alternating between my right and left hand. I also get 3 silver stars for 2 cracked finger nails and one good smack to my right ear. I only gave up there because I had hooped myself to exhaustion.

<p>&amp;amp;amp;lt;p&amp;amp;amp;gt;&amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;lt;p&amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;gt;&amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;lt;p&amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;gt;&amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;lt;p&amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;gt;&amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;lt;br&amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;gt;&amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;lt;br&amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;gt;&amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;lt;br&amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;gt;&amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;lt;br&amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;gt;This&amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;lt;/p&amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;gt;&amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;lt;/p&amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;gt;&amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;lt;/p&amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;gt;&amp;amp;amp;lt;/p&amp;amp;amp;gt;</p>
This is my hooping teacher Sarah at the last inappropriate hafla. She is teh awesome!

Cool hooping links:
www.hooping.org - online Hooping Community
www.jasonunbound.com/hoops.html - How to make your own hoop
www.identi-tape.com/hooptape.html - All kinds of spiffy tape to decorate your hoop

~(N) <-That's me with a hoop

Beading Tutorial: The Sandwich

2011-05-08T14:49:00.004-05:00

Here is one of the easiest beading techniques you can do to decorate your own costumes with only a few hours work and a few bucks. A little sparkle can go a long way. Adding Sandwich trim to the bottom of a skirt is the quickest way to take it from looking homemade to looking professionally made.**

You will need:

Thread
Beading needles
Scissors
Sequins
Rocaille beads, seed beads, or bugle beads
Tray/lid
Thimble (for pushing needle through thick layers of fabric, optional)

To make the Sandwich:

I prefer to use faceted sequins that have a bowl-like shape to them and reflect more light. This is not necessary but their shape gives the Sandwich its name. First, thread and knot your needle. Pull it through your material where you would like to place the Sandwich. Thread one sequin, facet side up like the bun of a sandwich. Fill your bun with 3 beads and top with another sequin facing down. The beads will be between the two sequin "buns" like the meat and cheese of a sandwich.

Slide the Sandwich down against the material. Spread the Sandwich flat and insert the needle under the loose sequin bun.

Bring the needle back up from the back side of the material at your desired spacing. You are ready to make your next Sandwich.

Notice the Sandwich on the left is not spread apart as far as the other two. The further apart you spread your Sandwiches the more chance you have that the tread will show.

That's it! Not you can use this technique for all kinds of costuming purposes. Sandwiches are great for straps, skirt, bra, and belt trims, and covering large areas with lots of sequins. Lay your Sandwiches end to end or stacked on top of each other to make different patterns. Change up the bead types filling your Sandwich to get a different textured appearance. Here are some examples of Sandwiches.

A fuchsia professional made bra covered in Sandwiches (notice these sequins are not faceted but flat disks) and a gold Sandwich trimmed skirt I made.

Skirt trimmed with bugle bead Sandwiches.

Necklace straps filled with Sandwiches

A row of Sandwiches with two gold seed beads on a professional made costume bra.

Have fun and good luck!

~N

**NOTE: The information on thread and supplies was moved to its own post located here.

Greek Night 8 year Anniversary May 21st

2011-05-04T11:20:00.000-05:00

▲s - Mastika

2011-04-22T09:59:00.001-05:00

Repost from Ozma on FB of ▲s (PyramiDos), a Japan based Gypsy/Rom style band. I love videos like this that show cultures and people merged into something that can only be described as awesome. Oh, and they are pretty kick-ass musicians as well.

OPA!

~N

Now watching: Doraleous and Associates

DanceTastic: Lil Buck and Yo-Yo Ma

2011-04-21T12:34:00.000-05:00

A little dance related eye-candy reposted from FB, Lil Buck and Yo-Yo Ma. The footwork is amazing.

As for me, I am sub-teaching some beginner classes for SBDA this week and next.
~N

Now Listening: Cheap Trick

Tar Berries April 2011

2011-04-16T08:43:00.066-05:00

Sewing Supplies. My camera still isn't picking up the color right

Work on Tar Berries has been touch and go. I keep putting it aside to work on other things. Here are some pictures to tide you over.

Cheap flimsy bra that fits worse than a paper sack but totally worth it for $3.24 on clearance.

The butchering begins. Straps and sides cut off. Cups re-angled in the center. I used a piece of thick sketch paper to make a pattern for covering the cups.

Cups covered with Hopes and Dreams scraps and felt. The cups are starting to hold some shape.

Inside detail. New sides made from felt, scraps, and some grosgrain ribbon for support. Now covered in awesome black fabric.

Ooo, Shiny. The fabric bunches on the sides when laid flat but it is actually nice and smooth when the bra is on and curved around my body.

Making shoulder straps with layers of grosgrain ribbon. I decided to piece together black scraps for the covers because will not show under the beads and I will be saving the big pieces for other things. Also trying to use up some crummy thread I bought once when I was in a pinch. I will switch back to the good stuff on the parts that show.

Now: Completely uncoordinated. I keep dropping things and running into stuff. =\

Bellydance By Any Other Name Would Smell As Sweet

2011-04-11T22:43:00.001-05:00

Warning: Out of character long babbling post ahead.

As a self proclaimed Bellydance Philosopher I have had a few ideas about the dance stirring around in my head for some time. I am also a self proclaimed Lazy Pants so I have never taken the time to write them out. Last September I read Foxy's post Turkish vs Egyptian Belly Dance: Where do you stand? and scoffed at the quote, “Turkish belly dancers strut while Egyptian belly dancers glide.” Whoever originally said that obviously hasn't seen the Egyptian dancers I have seen. Not only can they strut but they do, usually over the course of a really long entrance piece.

I rolled Foxy's post around in my head for a week or so reflecting on how I feel about all of the different BD styles completely intent on writing a response. Then a few weeks went by. Then a few months. Lazy Pants, or should I say Philosopher Lazy Pants, never took the time to respond. I know there are forums aplenty out there about BD styles, which styles sprang from others, which have more credibility than others, etc. (I recently learned that there is Improv Tribal Style now.) Honestly, I could give a crap about petty bickering over which style has a deeper connection to the music. I stay far away from opinion polls and forum rants and just about any discussion on the matter. I think the arguments are dumb.

“But Philosopher Lazy Pants, isn't it hypocritical of you to post your opinions here, expecting they be read, while not bothering to read the opinions of others?!”

Yes. Yes it is.

Actually, I do read good, well educated opinion posts, like Foxy's, and other BD articles but I intentionally weed out the whining, ranting, “my dance is better than yours,” posts.

Right, so back to my point. A few weeks back I was trolling around YIPpodcast.com trying to catch up on some podcasts and one of the ladies (Mary I think,) was talking about my blog posts. She mentioned how my posts are short funny snippets about my BD life that do not delve much into the deeper topics that others write about. And I thought to myself, “Exactly, right! She knows a Philosopher Lazy Pants when she sees one!” A day or two went by.

“Heeeyy! I have ideas...deep ones. No really!" *Whiny voice*

“Stop having conversions with yourself, get off your Lazy Pants, and write something already!” *Reprimanding voice*

CHALLENGE!

Not really. But Foxy's post with a push from YIP has inspired me to give my real opinion on BD styles. Brought to you in the form of an analogy.

The Bellydance Alphabet Analogy

It is difficult for most dancers to describe the different styles of BD to a lay person. BD practitioners often speak of all styles of BD having a common set of movements wherein it is the execution and presentation of these moves that produce the different styles, blah, blah. This is also usually underscored with x-style being the original or correct style. I agree with this in a scratching-the-surface kind of way.

I think of BD movements like the letters of the alphabet. These letters (muscles,) are put together to make words (circles, figure 8's,) words into sentences (combinations,) and sentences into paragraphs (choreography.) With this dancers tell stories. They can tell old stories, (what is handed down to them by their teachers,) or make new ones of their own. Sometimes, lines change in the retelling and the story begins to have a different slant to it. Maybe even a completely different ending.

What gives these stories a particular style is the way they are written. Some stories are written in cursive. Some in big bold letters. Large fonts. Small fonts. Some dancers dot their i's with a smiley face while others may scribble and leave it to the audience to figure out. I'm pretty sure I've even seen some “Wingdings” out there. All dancers use the alphabet, make words, tell stories, but each one is written in his or her own hand.

Just like with real words, not everyone relates to or even interprets another person's style in the same way. If you really wanna run with it you can go as far as thinking how different cultures can change the meaning of words and how that would relate to the Bellydance Alphabet Analogy. If you ask for a fag in the UK you get a cigarette. If you ask for a fag in the US you get sued for harassment. In either situation it is spelled the same way. Does that make it a bad word? No, of course not. Just as one style is no less credible than another. All styles are credible in the appropriate setting. Just because it may be something you do not want to hear does not make it less valuable or viable if presented with respect and with an artist's heart.

I believe the meaning in the movement is much more important than the font you write it with.

~N

Now feeling: a little existential
Mood: I think I used my word quota all on one post. I won't be able to write again for months...jk.

Sage Applique 2.0

2011-04-11T11:03:00.000-05:00

Greek Night wearing Sage Applique v1.0

When I was new to Bellydance I bought a used homemade costume at a Kansas City bazaar for $110, (2001?) It was a black bra and belt covered with green and iris appliques and tons of fringe. It came with a dark green lace panel skirt, lace gauntlets, some stretch sequin armbands, and head band, and all of the extra bits left over from construction.

The bra and belt base was on very old velvet that had begun to deteriorate and shed. I stripped the appliques and began to redo the bra and belt on new black fabric. Halfway through the process I found this flowy sage material on clearance for $1/yard. The color really made the iris beads pop. So I ripped it apart and remade the costume in sage.

I did not really know what I was doing at the time. The bra was covered with fabric only. No reinforcements, original straps, etc. The belt I made never really fit my hips. I sewed on the appliques and fringe but never went beyond that. There was no trim and large gaps between the appliques. Pretty standard for a beginner costume but it is finally time for an upgrade.

As a general rule, I try to stay far far away from appliques. There is a very fine line between an awesome applique and a 1980's wedding dress. However, the unusual color and profuse amount of appliques I have for this project help keep my on the right side of that line.

Figuring out the applique layout on the new belt form before covering with fabric. The belt form is multiple layers of felt and I think an old pair of jeans. I have already forgotten.

Covering the new belt with fabric.

Starting to fill in around applique with sequins, beads, and acrylic crystals.

More bead detail.

It already looks completely different from the original black and the original sage. The bra is next.

~N

Naima From the Block

2011-04-11T10:29:00.000-05:00

March 2011, photo: C. Wells

For March's Inappropriate Hafla I fro'd my hair out, put on a wife beater and sported some homemade bling. I used 2 old CDs, a coffee can lid, rhinestones, glue, nuts, bolt, and chain.

PS. It spins.

~N

Click to hear the song I danced to.
mood: Adrian Grenier