How to Choose a Costume to Flatter Your Bellydance Body Type Part 1

Or The longest post ever.

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I would like to spend some time talking about costuming and how to choose one that better flatters your figure. This post go so long and out of control, I decided to split it up for sanity's sake. First of all, I am not an expert on costuming, but I have done a lot of reading about figure types, colors, patterns, and cuts that I can share as pointers on picking (or NOT picking) a costume to flatter your figure. Don't forget, these are all my personal opinions. Take them for what they're worth ;)

All Bellydancers should be aware of her "bellydance" body type. There are 3 things that you must address separately = bust, torso, and size (as in thin, average, full/goddess figure). You are doing yourself a disservice if you are buying/making costumes based solely on size (sm, med, lg, xl, xxl, etc.) The main thing we all want to do is have the illusion of a balanced hourglass figure regardless of our body type. However, don't let yourself think that even though you may already have an hourglass shape or be lean and toned that you should wear any type of costume you want.

Well, you can, but you can look even better if you realistically look at your proportions.

A note on terminology:

There are many different definitions and measuring techniques to determine what long waisted, short waisted, and average waists are. Usually, a long, short, or average waist is determined by where it falls in context of the entire length of the body or from the shoulder area down.

Since we are discussing the Bellydance body the main visual focus is the torso and belly, not the overall placement of the waist. In this case, we will refer to the distance from the bottom of the bust to the natural waist line (narrowest part of torso) to determine long, short, or average waisted.

DISCLAIMER: THE FOLLOWING IMAGES ARE USED HERE ONLY AS VISUAL AIDS AND ARE NOT MEANT TO INFRINGE ON ANY COPYRIGHTS OR OTHER APPLICABLE LAWS.

Let's talk about what an "average" bellydance body type would look like.





This model has a medium bust, waist, & hips. She is a healthy weight. The distance between her bust, waist, bellybutton, and belt line are almost all even. She could wear just about any costume and look good in it because her proportions are pretty even. One important thing to note is her natural waistline (the narrowest part of her torso). It is almost exactly between the bottom of her bust and her belt line. For this discussion we will say she has an average waist. Keep this in mind as we move on.

The Short and Dumpy Look (AKA Short Waisted)



Next we have a model who has a large bust and short torso. (She is actually built a lot like me only thinner). Now if you really look, this model also has a healthy weight, like the first model. But for some reason, she looks short and dumpy in this costume.



The first thing you notice is her bust line. The bra cups aren't big enough and her bust is being pushed flat and down because of it. Her bust looks sad and heavy. One of the biggest complaint for dancers with large busts is that it is almost impossible to find a costume bra that fits. Ok, well you have two options. Make it yourself or pay to have it made. I know that isn't what you wanted to hear but you will benefit SO MUCH if your bra fits properly. No one wants sad looking boobies. And if your bra fits, YOU will feel better about your body on stage. REALLY. I mean FOR REAL. We will talk more about the bust later. BTW, I am going to continue calling them boobies = more fun!

Next lets look at her proportions. Her waist is almost directly under her bust line. Since the distance between her bust and waist is short we call this "short waisted". Her waist is also mostly hidden by lots of fringe. Since her waist is high and obscured she doesn't have much of an hour glass at all. Instead, there is an illusion of an extra round belly even though we already stated she is fairly fit.

She is also wearing a belt with a straight cut waist fairly close to her bellybutton. While that is perfectly fine, this doesn't help the model's figure since there is no distinction between her waist and belt line. They almost look the same width.

So what do we have here? A low wide bust, no waist, and extra round belly on a model that isn't really short and dumpy. We can fix this by doing a few simple things with her costume choices.

1. Get a bra that fits.
2. Remove some or all of the bra fringe obscuring the waist line
3. Find a belt that has a V-shape, scallop, or other asymmetrical design that draws the eye up and down instead of side to side.

I have a big bust and short waist. Here is one of my favorite costumes that you all have seen before with a break down of why is looks good on me.



Notice, the bra fits. It lifts and separates (but not too much). The lift of the bra provides more distance between the bottom of my bust to my waist line. (Having my arms lifted also helps). I don't look short waisted at all. This equals happy boobies. The bra has long fringe but not too heavy. It does not obscure my waist line. The V-shape of the bra (marked by the green lines) make you think that the sides of my bra are a further distance from my waist than it really is. This is because the sides of the V look high and the point of the V looks low.

The V-shaped belt (marked by the other green lines) gives the illusion there is more space between it and my navel (which there is) even though the sides of the belt are actually in line with my navel. Again, it is because the sides of the V look high and the point of the V looks low.

If I were to wear the costume on the model above, I would look just as short and dumpy. Even more so, because (unlike the picture of me here), I am fuller figured, AKA weigh more, than the model does.

The Long Torso (AKA Long Waisted)



Here is a model who we would consider long waisted. Don't let the bottom of the bra fool you. Her bust is smaller that the bra she is wearing. The distance from the bottom of her bust is longer (marked by the arrow) than the average waist and much longer than the short waist.



Here is the same model in another costume. This time the bra size is more appropriate. The upward curve of the bra and downward curve of the belt give her an even longer leaner looking torso. Either costume is flattering for this model however, the orange one is too big and needs to be smaller.

BEWBS
Hooray for Boobies!

Now we are going to talk a bit about bust.

More fringe is not always good for boobies. For two reasons.

1. You already have big boobs.



Here is a model with a large bust considering her petite waist and hips. The bra seems to fit ok but there is WAY WAY too much fringe. While extra fringe can make the bust look bigger she already has big boobs. The long heavy fringe here makes for long heavy boobs. Long heavy boobs are just as unflattering as sad boobs.



Even though she is fairly busty, she isn't very curvy otherwise. This costume gives her the illusion of long heavy boobs, a square torso, and narrow hips. Her hips are naturally narrow but the GIA-NORMOUS boobs make them looks even smaller. No hourglass here. The blue lines looks more like a mushroom from Super Mario Bros.

2. You have smaller boobs



This model has smaller boobs but again a bra with too much fringe. Long heavy fringe = Long heavy boobs...not bigger and better. And last I checked, small and perky were much better than long and heavy. This model also appears to have an average torso but again the fringe obscures most of her waist line.



How do we fix this?

Easy, remove some of the fringe. A lot of times the fringe is pre-beaded onto a ribbon or string that is whip stitched onto the costume. You can usually cut it off without injuring the bra or other bead work. Remove any fringe that obscures your waist or that is excessively long and thick. You can then use the fringe on another costume piece. This will take care of the long and heavy look for both big and small size busts.

Too fill out smaller boobs, get fringe that is thick but much short that doesn't hang much below the bust line. This will enhance the size of the cup without drowning you. Also, you can wear push-up pads in your bra. Make sure they are stitched in or have a pocket or velcro to keep them in place. You don't want them wiggling out. Bra pads may be an old trick but it still works. Make sure they are the same color as your bra lining or your skin tone. That will keep them less noticeable as well.

Find a bra that has tightly sewn on coins.



This coin bra has coins that are beaded in a way that make them stick out instead of dangle loose and lay flat. It makes my boobs look HUGE and there is no fringe to cover my waist line. Compare the size of my boobs in this costume compared to the red costume above. BIG difference, huh? I actually removed all the fringe from the bra cups and made the necklace out of it.

I bought this costume before I knew much about costuming for my body type. The main plus about it is that is was made to order, not off the rack. So it fits my measurements. While the size of my boobs in this costume looks almost ridiculous, it isn't so bad that I wouldn't wear it.

The belt has a scalloped edge. This keeps my belt from visually cutting me in half. Instead, the eye follows the wavy line up and down fooling you into thinking I am thinner.

Fringe! It's Everywhere!
Lots of fringe all over, not just the bust, can be unflattering too.



Here are two versions of a basic dance dress with fringe all over. Now remember, fringe on a BD costume is there to accentuate movement. There is a good 6 inches of fringe length on the red dress and at least 10 inches or more on the black dress. When the dancer moves the fringe will come away from the body adding width to the dancer's overall silhouette. If you are a full figured dancer or any dancer that doesn't want to look extra wide, these dresses would be a poor choice.

The base measurement of a US Misses size 20 is a 42" bust and 44" waist. If you were a size 20 and wore the black dress, when you moved the fringe would add up to 10 inches visually to your silhouette. THAT'S ALMOST A FOOT ON BOTH SIDES! TWO EXTRA FEET OUT FROM YOUR BODY. NOT AROUND, BUT OUT!

<-------------------TWO {you} FEET-------------------->

As Ananya would say, "Holy Buddha!"

Literally!



If you can't wrap your brain around that, lets look at these pics as an example. In the first pic the fringe on my belt is spinning out from my body marked by the red rectangle. This widens the silhouette of my hips only.



The second pic shows what I would look like if I had the same length fringe all over. The red rectangle is much bigger and I visually take up more space.

I know the heavy fringe costumes and dresses are pretty and luxurious on the hanger, but not necessarily on the body.



Instead, opt for dresses/costumes with little or shorter fringe, or fringe that remains primarily only around the bust and hips - not all over. This will keep you looking more like a dancer and less like Cousin It.

Fringe-tastic

Lets elaborate more on fringe. Some dancers are obsessed with fringe. It can be sparkly and mesmerizing as it moves with the body and not all long heavy fringe is bad fringe.



Here are two different styles of bras and belts on the same manikin. The purple set has little fringe on the bra and shows off the torso. It has a V/scalloped belt line.

The white set is almost identical in basic shape (cut of bra and angle of belt) but has super long luxurious fringe that completely covers the torso. Yes it looks curvy, but keep in mind the average manikin is around a size 5 or 6. Imagine that fringe on a larger size. Imagine it on a shorter torso. Imagine a dancer buried under there somewhere.

From what we have learned so far the white set wouldn't be near as flattering as the purple set.

But wait! We can change that!



Here is the same style costume as the white set only in a different color. With so much fringe I looked like a buoy floating in an ocean of fringe. To define my waist line I removed the side fringe (marked in red). In this case I can have an hourglass figure AND luxurious fringe at the same time AND get some partial tummy cover out of it. The straight fringe hanging from the center of the bra draws your eye down and the V-shape of the belt draws it even further making my torso look longer than it really is.

Continued in Part 2

~N